tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-49448636697298198952024-03-12T20:08:32.313-07:00Nathan Lee ClimbingNathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.comBlogger29125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-15268863230193303092015-08-12T04:10:00.000-07:002015-08-12T04:10:24.498-07:00Ireland Part 1 - Fairhead and the Mournes
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The ferry seemed to be taking forever, perhaps it was just
the company. This grim Voyage of the Damned from Holyhead to <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Dublin</st1:place></st1:city> had been a long time coming. Ever
since watching the classic Irish climbing flick Underdeveloped it has been an
aim of mine to spend some time in <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Ireland</st1:place></st1:country-region> and sample the contrasting
areas it has to offer. I was lucky enough to spend a month there this June and
July. This was clearly going to be a less productive trip than the sunny months
of last years trip to Ceuse; an early ferry home having rinsed all of our money
on cafe cakes and Guiness was almost expected. Shockingly however the weather
(mostly..) played ball, allowing us to sample all of Ireland's main jewels,
from the enormous granite bastion of Fairhead, to the scrittly secluded beauty
of the Mourne Mountains and the remote, unspoilt islands off the coast of
Donegal. There are not enough words to describe the month in full so instead I
hope these extracts do justice to what a wonderful trip it was. </div>
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<o:p></o:p> </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6BHSkYvs77HHcBVU54oKfrVJvn_sz_RqjY0QfphZp3SGGnm32vNfLnnB10dBFcYadJdyRgSTBTAGevQQ9epjGoH8HbLww9Eqqf5ZeW2T5_88xq-zISE1luPZIYWiY9ltaUEGgjQUIqzQ/s1600/DSC04845.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6BHSkYvs77HHcBVU54oKfrVJvn_sz_RqjY0QfphZp3SGGnm32vNfLnnB10dBFcYadJdyRgSTBTAGevQQ9epjGoH8HbLww9Eqqf5ZeW2T5_88xq-zISE1luPZIYWiY9ltaUEGgjQUIqzQ/s320/DSC04845.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The man with the orange face. Bob Hickish in a wild position on Rathlin Wall</td></tr>
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<u><strong>Fairhead<o:p></o:p></strong></u><br />
<br />
Mountain quality rock without the walk, twice the height of
the Cromlech, the best crag in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Ireland</st1:country-region></st1:place>
(and therefore to this person, the world...) There had been some big chat about
Fairhead; expectations were understandably high. Typically fidgety, me and Rob
walk in to the crag in a hurry, leaving our more chilled-out partners behind in
order to get to the crag a whole two minutes early. Even having been warned,
the scale is still impressive. Arriving a week after the crags eponymous
"meet" proves to a tactical masterstroke by Rob, as many of the
classic lines are chalked and clean. After climbing a superb E4 to warm up
attention turns to the classic Cooper frightener Primal Scream. With supposedly
limited gear for the first 20m this route holds a reasonably big reputation,
though admittedly this was somewhat diminished by the news that a well known
southern chummer had onsighted it a few days previously. The route begins with
a long leftwards traverse out from a corner. After this the climbing is tricky
but broken up by many foot-ledges. This allows you to stand around for hours pondering
the next move whilst your belay ages in the background. I really enjoyed this
one, milking maximum time on the route whilst Oli shivered in the corner. After
this it was straight down to Rathlin Wall. This is probably the most famous bit
of cliff at the 'head, standing 70 metres in places and hosting most of the
hard classics. Lengthy negotiation had landed me the lead on Primal and it was
therefore only right that Oli got the lead on Above and Beyond. After
despatching the first pitch of Wall of Prey, perhaps the classic E5 of
Fairhead, Oli set off on the rising leftwards traverse of A and B. As the sun
set and the crag was cast in golden light I remember thinking that I'd be happy
if we got a better day this trip. Not bad for a first day! <o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
The rest of the week flew by in a storm of poorly placed
gear, blue tack and sandbag cracks. Quickly the final day of our week in
Fairhead was upon us. The last act was an impressive effort from Oli, making an
onsight of a highly chalked route that we'd all watched Ed Booth on the day
before. <o:p></o:p><br />
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The atmospheric "Idlewild"</td></tr>
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<u><strong>The Mournes<o:p></o:p></strong></u></div>
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The <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Mourne</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Mountains</st1:placetype></st1:place> are a pretty
special place. Surrounded by the sea and flat countryside they rise from
nowhere, with many of the rocks sitting on the very top of the hills. These
high vantage points give the crags amazing aspects when they aren't smothered
by low cloud. The section about the Mournes on the aforementioned film
Underdeveloped is brilliant, with some impressively sketchy ascents of necky,
smeary slab routes. The film also features a panning shot of crag, Buzzards
Roost, home to the Dunne super-route Divided Years. The line of this route,
coursing straight up the prow through the finest plummage of the bird is
extremely impressive. It has long been a dream of mine to climb this line, but
for me, this trip, it would to have wait. For Oli though there was no time to
waste. James Machaffie and Ryan Pasquill had just done the deed and the youth
was keen to continue his bitter crag rivalry with the former. In hindsight Oli
described his ground up go on Divided as "shambolic." A crucial piece
of kit for this route is a pecker hook placed before the hard climbing starts,
eliminating the need to fiddle in a wire mid crux. This pecker somehow found
its way off Oli's harness and into a thin hairline crack on one of the crux
holds, rather than the inviting, ticked pocket up and right. Fortunately his
attempts from here improved drastically. After a minimal look on abseil Oli
proceeded to cruise the route a couple of days later, looking ridiculously
smooth in the process. I can honestly say that watching this ascent was one of
the highlights of the trip, even though no-one will believe me.<br />
<o:p></o:p><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">About to come unstuck. Next frame I'm almost off screen!</td></tr>
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<o:p> </o:p>Perhaps one of the best bits of footage on Underdeveloped is
the scary, skiddy fall that Ricky Bell takes off the top of the classic Irish
Si slab, Mushroom Boyz. Another of the routes featured on the film, Tolerance,
had submitted to my top roping a few days previous and a new challenge was
required. Thrill Issues of the Jellyman seemed a good option and after a brief
inspection the lead was on. Headpointing is a funny one, in the past there have
been occasions when even if I've felt sketchy on something I'll lead it,
usually based on the logic that I've not fallen off many yet. This flawed
approach was in full force this day as I climbed up, threaded a monster pocket
and walked rightwards to where the meat of the route begins. The crimps feel
warm, but its cold up here even when the sun is out. The route is two moves,
stand up on the left foot, put the right high, stand up on the right, get in
balance, walk to the arete. Pretty minimal. As the first stand is committed to
all is not well, but all has been not well before and then it worked out OK. As
the high right foot lands the left goes. Surreal scenes form as I fly past
several ledges towards the ground, luckily coming up about a metre short,
bashing my hip on rope stretch. Liam, dragged in during the fall, looks sick. I
can't stop laughing. A few hours after and the comedown from the adrenalin
leaves me feeling annoyed with myself. Invincibility is a good tool when
headpointing but mine feels completely shattered. Luckily Liam's sickness is
only temporary and that afternoon he makes Tolerance look very easy, a well
deserved first of the grade for the Chorley Powerhouse.</div>
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Part 2 soonish<o:p></o:p></div>
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-21263519488533768952015-06-13T01:15:00.000-07:002015-06-13T01:15:00.818-07:00The Lull and Pembroke<div class="MsoNormal">
The past couple of months have represented something of a
lull for me. With some pretty mediocre weather and mounting uni work I ended up
having a few weeks off climbing, mainly running during the time I had out of
the library.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Predictably this break did not last long and after a few
weekends away the psyche has definitely returned. Pembroke Bank Holidays seem
to have become a mini institution of late, with tons of people making the long
journey down. At one stage Huntsman's Leap was reminiscent of a busy evening at
the Tor. Route of the weekend was probably the "One-Eyed Man" at <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Blind</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Bay</st1:placetype></st1:place>;
perhaps most famous for the photo of Jules Deep Water Soloing it. Having done
the route this is something I'd love to re-enact!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One Eyed Man! Exposure!</td></tr>
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In the past few months a couple of people have asked me why
the winter has been so quiet for Grit ascents. To be honest I'm not sure why.
The apparent danger involved in most of the hard routes means that you can't go
at the them half-heartedly. Following the last winter its probably natural that
there was a bit of a hangover period. Obviously I only speak for myself in
this, this lack of psyche has clearly not been felt by everyone. Perhaps the
best ticks of this grit season for me have come in the past few weeks. Firstly,
capitalising on the dry, hot weather of April, Oli and I managed ascents of the
rarely dry, and even more rarely climbed, Dharma in Dukes Quarry near Matlock.
This route, effectively a spicy, runout 7b+ on pegs is almost an anomaly on
grit; being 30m high its probably twice as long as most routes on the brown
stuff.</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Another long awaited tick came in the form of Crypt Trip at
High Neb on Stanage. Having been shut down on this previously it was great to
finish it off, all be it in a relatively poor style. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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In a few days I'll be heading to the Emerald Isle for a
month of tradding, Murphy's and sitting in cafes waiting for cliffs to dry. <st1:country-region w:st="on">Ireland</st1:country-region> has
been top of the trip-list for as long as I can remember, god I hope the
weathers good.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Nathan.<o:p></o:p></div>
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-5560268315728335362015-04-22T09:16:00.000-07:002015-04-23T03:50:36.763-07:00Knockin On Heathers DoorIt was this time last year that I first discovered <st1:place w:st="on">North Wales</st1:place> in its prime. For some reason I was totally
blown away by it, I think my expectations were oddly low. We spent some
early spring days wandering round the Pass, Ogwen and the coast, everything to
do. Throughout the rest of the Summer a few more fleeting visits were made,
steadily moving through the rights of passage. Kind Wad, Positron, Lord...<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset off Holyhead</td></tr>
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A perfect forecast guaranteed a return last weekend. There
wasn't a cloud in the sky on Saturday or Monday and Sunday wasn't bad either!
On the Saturday we trudged up to Cwm Glas Bach, a shady crag on the
"dark" side of the Pass. Oh the sense of superiority as you look
across the valley at the inferior Grochan, busy with people, the sun causing
the already frictionless rock to turn into a sweaty nightmare. However, this
smug state of mind lasted the mere five minutes it took for the warmth from the
walk in to wear off, the "light" side suddenly looking rather appealing.
After a brief (arm waving) warm-up I racked up to try a route I'd been meaning
to try all last summer and had conveniently avoided. Pretty Girls Make Graves
follows a steep crackline, there's loads of kit but that's not the issue! I
find it really pumpy to get the kit in, climbing above a blind wire that I'm pretty sure is shit. After fighting really hard and resting for ages halfway up I commit to
a sequence knowing its wrong and promptly fall off. I thought I'd stopped doing
stupid things like this but obviously not, maybe that will be the last time,
but I doubt it. Second time up I engage both brain and brawn (ha) and it goes
fine, still pumpy, but fine. After an ab and strip a freezing Oli races up it,
looking only slightly jaded, surprising given his <b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><a href="http://oligrounsell.me/2015/04/22/megalopa/" target="_blank">efforts</a></b> the previous day!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden Rhoscolyn</td></tr>
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<br />
The forecast for Sunday looked a bit chilly for the mountains and
therefore it was a choice between Gogarth and the slightly more friendly
Rhoscolyn. Rhossy was chosen on that basis and the first route lived up to this
mantra. The classic E5 Warpath was ace, loads of good kit and a nice level of
flashpump! The second however did not as Jack headed up Godzilla, an
intimidating cornerline with some holds not long for this world. In hot, greasy
connies it was a good lead (nice one maaattte) and on the top we decide to
chill out, shamefully lazy behaviour. Though this laziness is perhaps negated
by....<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj47o5AP5s2HavDP313iquDfgFvRo-S4I6S3SW_gQ3sV00vOq0832jjC7S73GhrE77Og3nMq21UW2tiWtz_2-sW7ub506WjZXBvUFXCt0DLCMJnfLGdGD4X6dCmYpnPTqEx0YJCEU9Ipj8/s1600/whit+climbing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj47o5AP5s2HavDP313iquDfgFvRo-S4I6S3SW_gQ3sV00vOq0832jjC7S73GhrE77Og3nMq21UW2tiWtz_2-sW7ub506WjZXBvUFXCt0DLCMJnfLGdGD4X6dCmYpnPTqEx0YJCEU9Ipj8/s1600/whit+climbing.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dinosaur!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The weekend wouldn't have been complete without a trip to
Gogarth. The tides were perfect for a chilled start and it was middayish by the
time the first route had been climbed, Katy throwing an entire rack into The
Strand on Upper Tier. After some lunch, Main Cliff was calling. Dinosaur seemed
a good bet being the next in line on the "Main Cliff E5" hitlist. There was also
a good breeze blowing, surely that would eradicate some of the smeggy sea
grease. I reach melting point under the overlap. Halfway up the pitch having
already used an entire chalkbag in 15m climbing, there is no sign of the wind
that chilled me belaying on Upper Tier. Resting is reducing the pump but also
my hands to pulp and with barely any chalk left already it seems important that moves are made soon. Wild moves using greasy jams and typically unhelpful
fins lead me leftwards round the overlap, puffing away in a way that only trad
can make you. Once round the overlap you're on E1 terrain. But the rope drag is
awful and the pump totally unshakeable. Reaching the belay is a huge relief,
the 4c moves below feeling pretty touch and go.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6aIowWSo9hPGpbsiQtP1dPlkEIFStGV1X_vIqGuKYMYkJZqZ6-k2-ie-5eH6ofPpanAx_KCiykCEy9twx3Ew7cMjaVMmsHDpvJ2gDTN8xyASXHt3MiFUGtjjdgK0vl4mF5HJu35-nHk/s1600/grease.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6aIowWSo9hPGpbsiQtP1dPlkEIFStGV1X_vIqGuKYMYkJZqZ6-k2-ie-5eH6ofPpanAx_KCiykCEy9twx3Ew7cMjaVMmsHDpvJ2gDTN8xyASXHt3MiFUGtjjdgK0vl4mF5HJu35-nHk/s1600/grease.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Grease!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The second pitch, which I
thought would be E1, not sure why, actually turns out to be a pretty hairy,
loose E2/3 which Katy negotiates with minimal puffing. The top pitch is the
usual Gogarth topout, treading carefully on beardy footholds and pulling as
lightly as possible on grim blocks. Anyone who has climbed at Gogarth will know
its a bit more "interesting" at the top than other sea cliff areas
such as Pembroke or the Burren. You don't just pull over the top to find a
bomber stake with your lunch and extra jackets nearby. Nope. Instead there is a
wee section of bushwhacking up a fairly gradual, heather-covered slope. If you've climbed the routes below that lead to this point its a given that you'd
be fine on this terrain. At least you'd think so. Perhaps not. Definitely not. Long story short after a
certain tradlord backed off said Grade 1 scramble it was left to me to do some
soul searching, embrace the heather and summon up the courage to walk (!) up the bank above. Ridiculous... We eventually topped
out at 8.30, having aimed for an early finish...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwFgfvWk9njqinboM2928QhIolLgt6zJKgfIFgs1sik6eFX52J5VeArKEX6EQfYR8ork6hTL7_cDEt3fOm19elyT1P65Q7FjVuZvyb_w0Aa_vXFV8vWfndl3N4Qdshp4nkVLo8EjQEM6c/s1600/heather.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwFgfvWk9njqinboM2928QhIolLgt6zJKgfIFgs1sik6eFX52J5VeArKEX6EQfYR8ork6hTL7_cDEt3fOm19elyT1P65Q7FjVuZvyb_w0Aa_vXFV8vWfndl3N4Qdshp4nkVLo8EjQEM6c/s1600/heather.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Death heather!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Those were three amazing days out, hopefully the first of
many. I cant wait to get back!<br />
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Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-43433391005672568532015-01-20T05:08:00.004-08:002015-01-20T05:08:57.692-08:00Slow SeasonIts been a pretty slow grit season this year, hence the lack of writing.<br />
<br />
Aside from a few days in November its just never really got going, well for me anyways...<br />
<br />
Those few days were great though, using some of the new confidence from a summer of trad and sport to go ground up on some of the grit routes that have been burning a hole in my ticklist for the past few years.<br />
<br />
Perplexity, Linden and Defying Destiny stand out. All climbed in better-than-usual style for me and mostly in control! It really is all about momentum on the grit, get one thing done and belief flies up, giving you a real advantage in a type of climbing based almost entirely on confidence. <br />
<br />
The main enjoyment of the last few months however has come in the form of sport climbing. A few years ago I had a nice but somewhat frustrating trip to El Chorro, having climbed some hard boulders on the grit I thought it would be a breeze out there. Oh dear, what a chump.<br />
<br />
Anyways, it was nice to return a bit fitter and despatch some of the routes I could only belay Dad on last time, the best of these being the ultra classic Lourdes. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxa-FsDnVedQ1yS-WwcjqGA0YT8PyBMeqnM6ORbDfLh5lMe_UzpbKHTfur32pY0GkMYyOsCgSnc-B1eN0uhACyCRr8oUb7iXjf-qhofCUx09oWbQb3P9_1TBRE1gnRFlUwIVDv8xkV_Pg/s1600/lours.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxa-FsDnVedQ1yS-WwcjqGA0YT8PyBMeqnM6ORbDfLh5lMe_UzpbKHTfur32pY0GkMYyOsCgSnc-B1eN0uhACyCRr8oUb7iXjf-qhofCUx09oWbQb3P9_1TBRE1gnRFlUwIVDv8xkV_Pg/s1600/lours.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jack immersed in the steepness</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-44877939419260657122014-10-20T08:15:00.000-07:002014-10-20T08:15:39.710-07:0010 of the Best - Part 2<br />
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This is the second half of a blog about ten days climbing in Pembroke and North Wales.</div>
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Day six,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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"What did you guys get on to today?" At Easter
Duncan and Guy had been on the Fascist and Me. They regaled a story of prussiking,
falling on pegs and very greasy connies. I'm not sure how I failed to take
their story into account when deciding what to do on the 6th morning. Neap
tides meant that at high tide we were able to get to the bottom of the route,
but only just and the swell made belaying a touch stressful. The first groove
is described as "awkward" in the guide. In the ten days it was by far
the closest I came to falling without actually taking flight; greasy (read wet)
laybacking and tricky gear, its hard work. Jack followed fine and despatched
the top pitch in fine fashion. Someone even stopping to take a picture. We were
a bit pooped after this, but after some food I was revived, and the range would
be open soon. We didn't have time to do <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>another route but had time to climb something.
I ran over to Govan's with my boots, if there's an ab rope in place I'll go
down, if not its a sign. But of course there's one there. The Arrow is the aim.
Flowing up it proves to be one of the highlights of the week, pulling through
the roof on buckets at 20m was life affirming. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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After a quick conversation with the guard he waves us in and
we head into the Leap. Jack fights his way up the incredibly greasy Just
Another Day/Scorch the Earth, a great effort in those connies. Back in Easter
on my first day in Pembroke I threw myself at a route with a reputation, Luke
Skywalker. This line has an impressive scalp list for a mere E5 and I soon
found out why, taking two falls from the top crux crack. I remembered it
vaguely and therefore it seemed the obvious next route. The route was a massive
fight, slapping into finger jams at the top and yarding on detached fins
fighting the clock. As jack topped out in the fading light we were grinning ear
to ear, not much beats a top trad day.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Day seven,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Our last day in Pembroke, wilted arms necessitate a change
in tact and angle of rock. Ships That Pass in the Night fits the bill, slabby
and delicate is all I'm up to. Its cliche but you run out of words to describe
routes like these. Jack then puts in a strong effort of Barbarella only to
agonisingly blow the top. I prevaricate about doing Yellow Pearls and choose
against it, escaping up the ace E1 the Hole. And with that our time in Pembroke
closes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Day eight,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Its a muggy day in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Bangor</st1:city></st1:place>,
the mountains are cloaked by low cloud and the humidity is high. Its Oli's
birthday. A decision to head up to the Gravestones is eventually reached. The
idea being to try the diminutive but also intriguing shallow groove of King of
Rumpy. Its more in the vein of grit than of welsh mountain trad, similar in
undertaking to things like Thin Air at the Roaches. After a few ups and downs I
commit to the groove, where a rockover enables a no hands rest to be gained. A
period of time goes by, probably at least 20 minutes, where I fanny around
trying to work out whether its worth committing. We have a couple of pads but
the landing is poor and rocky; falling didn't feel like an option. Eventually a
sequence involving an irreversible foot cross threw is committed to, and the
gamble pays off as the juggy break is gained. "That looked horrible"
comments Grounsell. Afterwards we indulge in some greasy birthday bouldering
followed by a great swim across lyn padarn with Soph.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Day nine,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Sport Climbing! Despite humidity being off the scale and no
sun we head to the Diamond; a very much in vogue venue. Despite poor conditions
it stilled lived up to the hype, the classic 7a Rub a dub dub providing a perfect
warm up. Next was Non-Tidal Screamer, a truly fantastic route with a bit of a
reputation for being runout. To me it felt like the Femme Noire of the Diamond.
Bouldery low down, to a good rest, then a sustained middle with a scary top.
Definitely keen to get back to this crag in future, hopefully without the
grease!<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Day ten,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Now the big one! All year this route has nagged at me. If
Ghost Train had burnt a hole in my ticklist Lord Of the Flies had taken a
flamethrower to it. There are very few routes in the world with the history it
has, everyone who has done it has a story. Alot of the routes that I hold in
the highest regard are lines that Dad talked to me about when I knew nothing
about climbing, Lord was probably one of the first. The story of his huge lob
off the top wall back in the day captivated my imagination, "when you fall
so far you realise you're falling and wonder when you might stop." Time
and again in the Pass I've chosen against trying it, but this would be my last
chance this year. The next day I was due to head back to <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>
for a week of carnage and knew that a return before it got wet would not be
likely. Henry was psyched for Right Wall, it had all the makings of a classic
day. Henry led up Left Wall to start, then swiftly moved on to the real
business of the day. For a first e5 lead it doesn't really get much better than
Right Wall, especially despatched in such a confident and assured fashion. At
the top psyche was high, I abbed down with my eyes shut and started getting
racked up. The first section went smoothly, fully in soloing mode above a shit
hook (probably missed best place) and I was relieved to gain the porthole. From
there the kit is ok and the climbing technical and blind, though chalk
undoubtedly helped me. From there its mostly a blur until one moment at the top
where I briefly saw myself taking THE fall I'd heard so much about. Snatching
up the groove with the left and stabbing my feet up, looking down at the void.
Yarding on grass to get onto the ledge its a mixture of satisfaction and
relief. After abbing and stripping we head down and solo Flying Buttress,
grinning all the way. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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Now I'm back in <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>,
ready for the grit (gulp) and training (gulpgulp) If this blog was a little to
self indulgent for you then I apologise, but purple patches like that one don't
come round to often. Now, back to chumming.<o:p></o:p></div>
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-962674674537003542014-09-29T14:56:00.000-07:002014-09-29T14:56:42.107-07:0010 of the best - Part 1<div class="MsoNormal">
Recently I spent a week in Pembroke followed by a few days
in <st1:place w:st="on">North Wales</st1:place>. This was a pretty special time
where weather, partners and momentum all came together in perfect sync.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Day one,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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"No red flag." A morning of cragging at Trevallen
was instantly scrapped in favour of the grander, often closed off, locations on
the range. Warming up on Just Another Day/Scorch the Earth felt fantastic; it almost seems there's
nowhere better to climb E5.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Certain lines burn a hole in your wishlist, often for many
years. You find excuses not to try them and further build up the pressure on
yourself, making the routes into more than they are. After Just Another Day I
realise that the time for procrastination had ceased, it was time to head into
Stennis. Half of what makes British trad specical can be found in the stories
that surround it. Tales of a "thousand yard stare" and heroic
belaying after a huge fall enhanced the reputation of Ghost Train no end in my
mind. The route itself is perfectly laid out, danger but not death, a glory
finish and some wobbly holds thrown in to cast doubt. This doubt varies from
day to day, sometimes commitment comes easily and some its nowhere to be found.
Thankfully on this occasion it was the former, which made for a perfect
experience; even allowing for a pause mid runout to laugh down to Neil.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Day two, <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Today Trevallen wouldn't be trumped. I was keen to check out
the Sunlover wall, one of the most photogenic and well catalogued faces in
Pembroke. Whilst this wall is famous for its classic twin E5's Barbarella and
Yellow Pearls I was here on other business, with the bold wall climb of Orange
Robe Burning in my sights. After a nervy start above the boulders the route
went without a hitch. The top section is superb, ledge fever sets in at the
break as you know you could stay there for days. Eventually when committed to
it provides a great climax, with a tricky move to a finger bucket, ace.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Day three,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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A return visit to Trevallen may have been unadventurous but
with limited time it seemed logical. What should have been an easy day quickly
became anything but as I made the somewhat appalling decision to try and warm
up on Barbarella. After fighting flash pump and scraping through the hard bit my
feet let me down and I slipped off some greasy fingerlocks. Hmmm. Oh well, at
least I know I'm warm now, next go no worries. But wait, round two is somehow
worse, shambolic climbing. After screwing my head back on and putting in
another good fight it finally succumbs, whilst the kit is better it feels more
of a proposition than ORB to me... <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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The day is finished by belaying Neil on what became
Choronzon. I'm pretty easily impressed by hard routes but this line really did
take the biscuit. On this day he fell off the last move of the crux, the season
was drawing to a close. Needless to say I was ecstatic when I got the text the
following weekend saying he'd done it. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Day four,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The plan is to head to Govans but the men with guns are role
playing again. Mother Careys seems a safe second bet. As per though there is a
hitch, a somehow unforeseen problem, the sea is crashing into the bottom of
Brazen Buttress. This forces a retreat to the non-tidal ledges of the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">White</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Tower</st1:placetype></st1:place>
next door. White Heat, the classic E5 of the crag looks almost to good to be
true, a rising thin crack-line forging up the perfect white slab. By this stage
in the trip fatigue is setting in and after the palaver of Barbarella I do
wonder whether to bother. But it looks like its got loads of kit on it, what's
the worst that could happen. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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10m up I place a perfect rock 6 and climb till its by my
feet, up to this stage the route has been unnervingly easy. The next bit looks
thin, cant see much more gear but the last one was a bolt. Commit a few metres
into the crux, the gear now getting further and further away. A crimp in the
face provides some respite, but its a poison chalice, taking me out of the
crack and leaving the gear out of sight. My right leg begins to shake, nothing
for the left foot, I use up precious reserves trying to peer into the crack, it
looks like a rock 2 slot, but my gear to eye coordination is not at its
freshest. Try the 2, wont go in, try the 1, pulls straight through. By now the
shaking is just comical. The climbing above looks hard, perhaps you should drop
off. No. The pump has become terminal as I rag my foot high onto a blind
foothold in the crack, stand up. Still no jugs, but wait, this looks more
promising, a break a couple of moves away. By now falling is an unappealing
prospect, as is continuing. The moves however turn out to be easier than those
lower down and the break is reached with a whoop. Anna rinses up it seconding,
waddage.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Day five,<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Even before I ever visited the place I had a conception that
Govans was the easy option of Pembroke, worthwhile but not why you go there,
lacking in adventure and risk. This most likely comes from Rob describing it as
"just cragging." He has a point no doubt, the routes are more chalked
and polished than many of the other crags in Pembroke and there's always people
down there. However today I had used up all my adrenaline reserves DWSing at
Broadhaven Cove above seals and a rough sea, so an afternoon of cragging fitted
the bill nicely. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
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Starting up Get Some In I had high expectations, this was
one of the routes I'd heard of before I could tell you where Pembroke was on a
map. It wasn't a letdown per say and I'm sure climbing it in better conditions
would help its cause (Hotter than the face of the sun that day) but it didn't
fill me with glee in the way that other routes this week have. John Wayne on
the other hand. Cruising up that top crack as it eats your runners one after
the other was fantastic, perhaps having lower expectations for routes is the
way forward. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Thats enough for one entry, next five soon.</div>
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-88413760578252852242014-07-04T07:03:00.000-07:002014-07-04T07:03:02.432-07:00Trad on the Agenda<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiv__JM9dYbpiri0jVnSNiJjIVHDKOF8ttL9-n0XRwaE-8PCs2RPLMt3XgGcwhppZSmgqVUGpLdsp7tj1C7Ddaa5PRGTctpRN5Qan1EMYOY_ko1ZvIEfg3cLXJYp-Pn3eOKmnG0aJn1AU/s1600/DSC04742.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiv__JM9dYbpiri0jVnSNiJjIVHDKOF8ttL9-n0XRwaE-8PCs2RPLMt3XgGcwhppZSmgqVUGpLdsp7tj1C7Ddaa5PRGTctpRN5Qan1EMYOY_ko1ZvIEfg3cLXJYp-Pn3eOKmnG0aJn1AU/s1600/DSC04742.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frisbee on Mingulay Beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I would describe myself as a trad climber; in that I'm weak
at bouldering and unfit for sport. Up to a few months ago however I had done little to no climbing in some of the mecca's of trad throughout the <st1:country-region w:st="on">UK</st1:country-region>. Sure enough
the grit represents "trad" but in reality it almost deserves its own
discipline, many of the routes I've done being essentially dangerous
bouldering.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKIkm15-ODnjTB_jlidl_UOrBRSTtTQGv6rD6pVn7K-nq3j9Kq_vV2m4so6T3s3fvatYrhyphenhyphenJLqvznpe2BFNxc3ChEQoPDDIhjcVmID-vjubW1_fDV55OSQD60DeURXnf-j4ECYAcyyMQ/s1600/DSC04718.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZKIkm15-ODnjTB_jlidl_UOrBRSTtTQGv6rD6pVn7K-nq3j9Kq_vV2m4so6T3s3fvatYrhyphenhyphenJLqvznpe2BFNxc3ChEQoPDDIhjcVmID-vjubW1_fDV55OSQD60DeURXnf-j4ECYAcyyMQ/s1600/DSC04718.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mingulay's Finest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
In the past few months however this has changed. Over
several trips I've spent many days climbing on the sea-cliffs and mountains of <st1:place w:st="on">North Wales</st1:place> and also spent a ludicrous week on the
Hebridean islands of Pabbay and Mingulay. These trips, whilst not ideal
preparation for a hard sport climbing holiday (gulp) have really opened my eyes
to the variety that exists within British climbing. Even further to this though
they have helped budge some of the dissatisfaction I feel with climbing when I
become to focused on difficulty rather than enjoyment.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtNxk6d9QEo29tO_K8SlKt-kxCN6OWGjUZ2nfAgMf42b5AFzAsx12G30lJwpEeMRDjPxmFeQofOYHFS7SjpayTuQIoaNNyZq2_IaAO6ZYyb0inD42F1yvA_1I_LXwbVnNAAgYk8DDX6Z0/s1600/DSC04708.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtNxk6d9QEo29tO_K8SlKt-kxCN6OWGjUZ2nfAgMf42b5AFzAsx12G30lJwpEeMRDjPxmFeQofOYHFS7SjpayTuQIoaNNyZq2_IaAO6ZYyb0inD42F1yvA_1I_LXwbVnNAAgYk8DDX6Z0/s1600/DSC04708.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the youth loving it</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Climbing Welsh classics such as Positron, Right Wall and
Midsummer Nights Dream have provided memorable days out and the ridiculous
routes on Pabbay and Mingulay were without doubt the best I've ever climbed.
Four star lines like Ship Of Fools, In Profundum Lacu and Ancient Mariners all
represent the creme de la creme of trad climbing. Massive exposure, perfect
gear, surprising holds and beautiful locations. I could write about them all
day. Its not just the climbing though; out on the islands time becomes
irrelevant, you live almost nocturnally, climbing from afternoon to dark and
getting up at lunchtime. If you ever want to escape real life and its sometimes
mundane nature this is the place to go.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1kXIZ-eb1l_8R710px7WBbISAS2w_pVMRy3KFlJhdSbjIdC9Y1Ey1FGAuAwJT3mqdevELoflxpOky8uXirL0TJd6qXkAsrHWOyArXAIBeK-x4-ShuxEXH28-M8KvpvilHocR_duA_7Gs/s1600/DSC04699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1kXIZ-eb1l_8R710px7WBbISAS2w_pVMRy3KFlJhdSbjIdC9Y1Ey1FGAuAwJT3mqdevELoflxpOky8uXirL0TJd6qXkAsrHWOyArXAIBeK-x4-ShuxEXH28-M8KvpvilHocR_duA_7Gs/s1600/DSC04699.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Robby G on Ship of Fools. Above it blasts straight up the wall to the<br />
grass on some ridiculous holds!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-9pvffXmZo9aYmCvgjaPfKvfsf3SJ9srVwi7vlEtl9MGSmqR3AyvdMPSF-Hk2puV2n3DWddGi5Desy4mhVELSSkbYCOQO0gktvRBiZmZQhHZcGJazBTJhVPcn1trDjB66fGvtGHybqk/s1600/DSC04711.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS-9pvffXmZo9aYmCvgjaPfKvfsf3SJ9srVwi7vlEtl9MGSmqR3AyvdMPSF-Hk2puV2n3DWddGi5Desy4mhVELSSkbYCOQO0gktvRBiZmZQhHZcGJazBTJhVPcn1trDjB66fGvtGHybqk/s1600/DSC04711.JPG" height="70" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red Wall, a stunning crag</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Soon I'll be departing for Ceuse, a place I've never been
and by all accounts another stunning crag. With everything left to do there the
aim is to tick as many classics as possible. Following this we head for Cortina
and the Dolomites. This area holds special resonance to me, being the place
where I first experienced climbing, exposure and the mountains. Returning now,
four years after my previous visit, sights are firmly set on some of the big
free classics.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBGEWrWBLXOUeRawHSz2n4UYQ2A4tjup1rESwt5qvGDMpFDkMaS2R4c_8xherybT2JmZsrjQyAMQWi9TtLid8VCX2C_1EoKNtozraemLI0gOgWIp-V70I0lf3jVe-UzwH1qfYN0fluRzk/s1600/DSC04744.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBGEWrWBLXOUeRawHSz2n4UYQ2A4tjup1rESwt5qvGDMpFDkMaS2R4c_8xherybT2JmZsrjQyAMQWi9TtLid8VCX2C_1EoKNtozraemLI0gOgWIp-V70I0lf3jVe-UzwH1qfYN0fluRzk/s1600/DSC04744.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Mingulay Campsite</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy67vOR8oIrvG3BmDwwfmp9z3s89DYGq5kUWHYBbCCGDNS87hBdIuEONBnks-bjpGawjrG6KszSx6_T95HjGTyvmVfunnnN37swDlQroI98y9QQ5-Oye9exnCRnuk3pZz58bHm0-lyoPo/s1600/DSC04736.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy67vOR8oIrvG3BmDwwfmp9z3s89DYGq5kUWHYBbCCGDNS87hBdIuEONBnks-bjpGawjrG6KszSx6_T95HjGTyvmVfunnnN37swDlQroI98y9QQ5-Oye9exnCRnuk3pZz58bHm0-lyoPo/s1600/DSC04736.JPG" height="70" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dome tent scenes</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitoLO8xgwwJBUBi3eUm_QQIzMiLwg2t38EkzxpRGr5dvuFLLFjxBx9wiU5FgzUgGzU615rszVex6dhTx7UFIgtYNQpz4e2WFNhxAoEcYqwP6pc0qYeAuXzjMvkiy2q_8m1wNxGyGAiGWM/s1600/DSC04754.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitoLO8xgwwJBUBi3eUm_QQIzMiLwg2t38EkzxpRGr5dvuFLLFjxBx9wiU5FgzUgGzU615rszVex6dhTx7UFIgtYNQpz4e2WFNhxAoEcYqwP6pc0qYeAuXzjMvkiy2q_8m1wNxGyGAiGWM/s1600/DSC04754.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption">On the psychebike</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP6-iJ3T8cM8Zskji1f1TZcECXaeWEiYuyX8GZ8_TrrNEaXi66oRAta3BVN2D819rMDnxQuMaNB61ELHGB01N0-Td60j8D_eVlElmWPBpbCsmEx342hyKYB6u2o1WBpKxy8xVa5D8lYTc/s1600/DSC04732.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP6-iJ3T8cM8Zskji1f1TZcECXaeWEiYuyX8GZ8_TrrNEaXi66oRAta3BVN2D819rMDnxQuMaNB61ELHGB01N0-Td60j8D_eVlElmWPBpbCsmEx342hyKYB6u2o1WBpKxy8xVa5D8lYTc/s1600/DSC04732.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Why did we leave the tent??</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Psyche is as high as ever!</div>
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-42090412007258595372014-04-05T09:40:00.001-07:002014-04-05T09:40:42.473-07:00Rare Lichen<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXypJaP1QHMmE91j3WCZQ_NZhhUsCkqTjpMLo9rUGJckGxWfjJIzGKP1eBnuq-ze4Qn7m9nnCDLkpnR4bbafHYXvSymw0jGu3hnE9BPvV5O6oyCv3_TIecFHSzhV-6D2kCg0p75-1OmhM/s1600/DSC04606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXypJaP1QHMmE91j3WCZQ_NZhhUsCkqTjpMLo9rUGJckGxWfjJIzGKP1eBnuq-ze4Qn7m9nnCDLkpnR4bbafHYXvSymw0jGu3hnE9BPvV5O6oyCv3_TIecFHSzhV-6D2kCg0p75-1OmhM/s1600/DSC04606.JPG" height="85" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Gribbin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Sat behind the counter in Outside on a quiet Monday I browse
through the various guidebooks. Ignorant of
Welsh climbing in general I scan through Gogarth North, The Pass, Cloggy and
finally, Ogwen. New places hold mysteries, lines catch the eye and a list
begins; the lifetime list. Since then this list has grown, routes from
countless destinations, of all grades. At home I still have the original scrap
of paper that the list grew from. The first scribbled name on that scrap, Rare
Lichen - Clogwyn Tarw - Ogwen.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Arête's have and always will hold a special aura for me. There
is something about them, they draw the eye, the exposure on such features is
hard to parallel; further to this they tend to provide a cruel lesson in technique
to the uninitiated. Rare Lichen represents all of the above. The level of
danger is also perfect, there is gear there, but how "there" it will
be when you fall is another matter. Don't get me wrong its not a total chop
route but falling comes ill-advised.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAL8rcq2b3fMYV9uCEfl-Hqn5DELmNeTs23GxUFN6LUeIBflgrGAYhR72okNptCABVrLD0h1smaSHA5ib2xe1Uu22IwBg4ZhR99tzZ8wG2Z1MkJ9eM7sk0LrTaWsk4GA87I_0JGSsWNLo/s1600/DSC04634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAL8rcq2b3fMYV9uCEfl-Hqn5DELmNeTs23GxUFN6LUeIBflgrGAYhR72okNptCABVrLD0h1smaSHA5ib2xe1Uu22IwBg4ZhR99tzZ8wG2Z1MkJ9eM7sk0LrTaWsk4GA87I_0JGSsWNLo/s1600/DSC04634.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clogwyn Tarw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The line breaks into three sections -</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- Steady ledge climbing leads to bomber cams, then a little
sketchy section to place an awkward RP2 in a blind slot.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- Tricky section moving around the arete, don't fall!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
- Hard crux section on the top arête after placing a few RP
runners.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
It was last weekend that me and Oli gambled off up into the
hills of Ogwen to check out the Gribbin. With the start being wet we set to
work on the top section. Flicking between sidepulls and the arete the top sequence
provides superb on-off climbing, with just enough holds to get by! The start
gradually dried, awkward placements were found and we made solid links on the
top rope. Not returning was out of the question. Then came the Indy Party and
the rest of the weekend disappeared into the mist.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJBgsA6jI3IncBGTD01-2V_O7kIQSMqgzpN5OFiekv78i4SzAHJWEdcpOlEO8XVhyynU5tsA3HQQ3Qx0X6bChNNBenWtTk3e1hoEi4mKogMJaINTCt5T8ORSJAW5znIVA00LPwhxFzcg/s1600/DSC04640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicJBgsA6jI3IncBGTD01-2V_O7kIQSMqgzpN5OFiekv78i4SzAHJWEdcpOlEO8XVhyynU5tsA3HQQ3Qx0X6bChNNBenWtTk3e1hoEi4mKogMJaINTCt5T8ORSJAW5znIVA00LPwhxFzcg/s1600/DSC04640.JPG" height="87" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ogwen in all its beauty</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So this Thursday I repeated the oddly convoluted and
longwinded journey from Sheffield to <st1:city w:st="on">Bangor</st1:city>.
Friday was the day, looking just about dry, perched between days of rain either
side. Waking up Friday morning it was clear the forecast hadn't let us down and
we again wandered up to the Gribbin.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
On top rope the route feels harder than previous, with my
old sequence seeming unlikely and on-off. After sorting out a more slappy, yet
bizarrely solid seqeunce and learning the nuances of the gear the lead seems
on. Selfishly I ask Oli if I can go when I get down.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pulling on with warm fingers the holds seem better and more
positive than on the top rope. Arriving at the awkward RP slot I feel solid. But after placing it it doesn't look right, no time to rearrange, press on. Moving around the
arete I'm trying harder than I'd like to be, the RP in the back of my mind.
Once round onto the front face you can relax, place the key RP's and enjoy an
almost hands-off rest. The only problem is the rest is so good you don't
want to leave. You could lower off your gear here. There was no chance of this
however (You'd only have to do the sketchy bit again!) and pressing on the arête went like clockwork, tick-tacking up, enjoying the position and some
of the best moves about.<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGW8dOEbiMbZWk96ctsl3kguuXbzbaUaSMxKRkpDayu1W95-fRsDihz6np2ZdbeVm8zCQCRzTgia8XKYMq-cyJuCbAPQbw9ux-nXkv9bOkVt7TaaFh3I6IjEZQXK76k2WUMCk2nf66as/s1600/DSC04615.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGW8dOEbiMbZWk96ctsl3kguuXbzbaUaSMxKRkpDayu1W95-fRsDihz6np2ZdbeVm8zCQCRzTgia8XKYMq-cyJuCbAPQbw9ux-nXkv9bOkVt7TaaFh3I6IjEZQXK76k2WUMCk2nf66as/s1600/DSC04615.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Team Chummer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The day wouldn't have been complete without Oli's ascent,
which followed soon after. I've been badgering him about these routes for ages
so it was great to get the team tick! Also thanks to Mike Hutton for coming over and
taking photos, legend! Cheers for the place to stay aswell Henry!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
We finished the day with a route march up to the Lily Savage
boulders and managed to bag the mega classic 7b Paul O'Grady. Cracking day, may it be
the first of many this summer!<o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAeE54mgDItxOA736LzIfkl3dwcz212wDHDeBOFJ7cfZMxbW8vzawKvogqkrbazhwz6eSXdlcxI1n2A2e4wDsw3Zy7mMSHNl1B5-REeFXwO6rnbFLwkCw2dgwdlL1R0M7tmA644ACXhc/s1600/Paul.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikAeE54mgDItxOA736LzIfkl3dwcz212wDHDeBOFJ7cfZMxbW8vzawKvogqkrbazhwz6eSXdlcxI1n2A2e4wDsw3Zy7mMSHNl1B5-REeFXwO6rnbFLwkCw2dgwdlL1R0M7tmA644ACXhc/s1600/Paul.png" height="179" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P O G</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p>Cheers for reading, Nath. </o:p></div>
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-39498296626427022312014-02-10T06:30:00.001-08:002014-02-10T06:30:43.399-08:00Mid Season Blues<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1bjonO59WpL6o6a64gPDt4gTPZhqGS0o-qcFn-7yMr07W2VmNnqevdcqfb7Lh0cYjMmzYvRXlL2BmMTtBeXEzfAvu3kvCFkCDWQcr04m-MWHMm_xAnEy9LP5E-4yrkTwjdw4UEfr0G2c/s1600/Knockin.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1bjonO59WpL6o6a64gPDt4gTPZhqGS0o-qcFn-7yMr07W2VmNnqevdcqfb7Lh0cYjMmzYvRXlL2BmMTtBeXEzfAvu3kvCFkCDWQcr04m-MWHMm_xAnEy9LP5E-4yrkTwjdw4UEfr0G2c/s1600/Knockin.png" height="179" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Golden early season grit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So far the "season" has been going great. Coming
in I had a couple of routes I'd wanted to do, The Zone was the last one left on
the priority list. It could be criticised for being a pretty mediocre line on a
wall that harbours some of the best on grit. However the moves are really good
and it makes sense to deviate around like it does. Its another route I'd tried
last year and failed on. Not that it felt easy this time but its all in the
tiny margins. One negative about the route is that it eats your skin, the holds
being almost all edges, very unlike your average grit route. Another quirk is
the gear. Skyhooks that sit on edges halfway up the wall.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9r-NGYzm_4sQqXk654SaGRg5IK6BylzH2wAM_qIPOVKFTRAWUi7gUfSNdWwMLofQ3otqtpcn9RsXBV4GbKNyO-f17o_jOXpFFe6r1O9PeLMEgZdYBUKJrfhJZZhw4vPJvWmeYA-prRL8/s1600/SkyHOOK.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9r-NGYzm_4sQqXk654SaGRg5IK6BylzH2wAM_qIPOVKFTRAWUi7gUfSNdWwMLofQ3otqtpcn9RsXBV4GbKNyO-f17o_jOXpFFe6r1O9PeLMEgZdYBUKJrfhJZZhw4vPJvWmeYA-prRL8/s1600/SkyHOOK.png" height="179" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They're alright really</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>Whilst hardly bomber they're not too bad and have been famously tested by both skinny
youths Pearson and Grounsell. The day of the lead was a comedy of errors,
searching for my keys on Stanage only to find them in the car, getting
ridiculously pumped placing the skyhooks and watching my camera fall off a
cliff. The lead was not so comical, the kind of boring plod some would say
headpointing often produces, oh well, I enjoyed it, even if my fingers didn't.
Nick Brown got some stellar footage of both this and Knockin. If you haven't
seen the video yet what rock have you been hiding under??</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2-r5nfT6ELYme7mokOQU5ahEYLU3jI3QW7tjFMpPg2c1BLLV49ajBP41_4O_H2Tj4aqhCGbwP_cspBRT-dn07T9mcAX74atjIT0UjFqH8L_JWzqhB1aBCoWhc74G1EuOAVrwOccBsLGU/s1600/Zone.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2-r5nfT6ELYme7mokOQU5ahEYLU3jI3QW7tjFMpPg2c1BLLV49ajBP41_4O_H2Tj4aqhCGbwP_cspBRT-dn07T9mcAX74atjIT0UjFqH8L_JWzqhB1aBCoWhc74G1EuOAVrwOccBsLGU/s1600/Zone.png" height="179" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Grinning Zone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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As per usual mid season staleness kicked in around early
December, when the weather turned shit and the psyche went through the floor.
Resuscitation arrived in the form of a trip. Just after Christmas I had the
pleasure of visiting one of the best crags on the globe; Siurana. Arriving in
the dark gave us no clues as to the grandeur of the valley, the sight of which
left me gobsmacked the next morning. Sport climbing has always been somewhat of
a sideshow for me, never drawing much focus away from the boulders or routes of
the grit, but Siurana has changed this.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8SUxPpYzDqGEP2KN_j7VtEoveNpxZzK6kzjHYU-PJ6LJ5qd9ILCO8YK3ICxlDFjWaMjoRmZElngzXmCJujWdxH-objBVXZoqWq1oup5cIX81X7H6GQ6Ozv7aHxnWzPom46GRXRDJxyg/s1600/DSC04379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk8SUxPpYzDqGEP2KN_j7VtEoveNpxZzK6kzjHYU-PJ6LJ5qd9ILCO8YK3ICxlDFjWaMjoRmZElngzXmCJujWdxH-objBVXZoqWq1oup5cIX81X7H6GQ6Ozv7aHxnWzPom46GRXRDJxyg/s1600/DSC04379.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the flash on Ya Os Vale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p>For starters the El Pati is simply ludicrous, I cannot
picture myself ever being fit enough to scale the steeper regions, I get the
feeling alot of things will have to change in my mentality to make it happen.
Watching the eurowads attempting these extra terrestrial routes gave food for
thought, the training is probably worth the effort if this is where it leads
you. Most of the trip was spent ticking away, resisting the urge to spend all
my time on things too hard for me and repeatedly eulogising on how cool this
place was. All I can say is that being back in <st1:country-region w:st="on">England</st1:country-region> for the wettest January for
years was horribly sobering. The Works must be raking it in.</div>
<br />
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXJSD_iDQv1R5InLF3h1hXrYJTNAhV8m6CgU91R9sAkQs3IXRcgMlJ-gpx9cJxEMiU50B5dhcU1msPmp9Ovnf4l9rvRHQrMQJ2miGsVDhd9jYwBPK4TjcArbJBJftUOsgtsRrcD8PEAQ0/s1600/DSC04455.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXJSD_iDQv1R5InLF3h1hXrYJTNAhV8m6CgU91R9sAkQs3IXRcgMlJ-gpx9cJxEMiU50B5dhcU1msPmp9Ovnf4l9rvRHQrMQJ2miGsVDhd9jYwBPK4TjcArbJBJftUOsgtsRrcD8PEAQ0/s1600/DSC04455.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Pati! Jack on one of the 7a's</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
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<br />Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-62256708004767468822013-12-02T15:33:00.000-08:002013-12-02T15:33:19.474-08:00Time Flies 1 <div class="MsoNormal">
Time flies when you're having fun. The first month and a
half of Uni has breezed by. Freshers seems a distant memory, though the flu
lingers on now and then. The weeks after are a blur. I had my doubts over
moving to <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>. Even such minute change,
for a creature of such repetitive habit, is not often welcome. During a hectic
first week I did little but drink and flail in the Works. After Unknown Stones
it was good to have a cooling off period, to forget climbing and just enjoy the
fun. After fortuitously bumping into Katy and Rob the hunger for the grit soon
returned. </div>
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</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Armed with a huge stake and sledgehammer we headed to the
rarely dry Burbage South Quarries. The walkers who saw us wandering the moors
that day would be forgiven for thinking we were planning some kind of pagan
crucifixion. The stake sunk into the heather-clad ground and so the fun could
begin. My intention was to try one of Pete's creations, Inspiration Dedication,
which climbs a slightly overhung wall on positive crimps. The only thing about
this route reminiscent of Gritstone is the potential to deck onto a boulder
from 9 metres. After drying the holds and working the moves it was a smooth
lead. This really is a rough diamond, perhaps a little better than its older brother French
Kiss. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM5VHofOEy0zQ_l76WeEwMWJFhxIxSqMJhktXVmWl6TAfsbStMVFO5ibqbxu7Q5oC7VZZVL-z_bybnWdgEA-6cYn9DJzjaGjg7N7PfQ60B2dQQ6gSG399AtZBHsFOs7eEFpVM58iypk-M/s1600/Inspiration.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM5VHofOEy0zQ_l76WeEwMWJFhxIxSqMJhktXVmWl6TAfsbStMVFO5ibqbxu7Q5oC7VZZVL-z_bybnWdgEA-6cYn9DJzjaGjg7N7PfQ60B2dQQ6gSG399AtZBHsFOs7eEFpVM58iypk-M/s320/Inspiration.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crux of Inspiration @Rich Sharpe.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Pre and post this day were some nice evenings spent at
Millstone. Katy and Rob on form with ascents of The Bad and the Beautiful,
whilst I dabbled in some esoterica, climbing two of the least well known E6's
in the Peak. Golden sunshine till 7 seems distant now as I glance to the window
and see darkness setting in at 4 O'clock. I never remember the downsides of
Winter. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
One of Gritstone's main faults is its size. The Promontory
at Black Rocks has no such problem. If life were fair this 20 metre ships bow
would overlook a perfect moorland plateau, miles from civilisation. Luckily for
the lazy its sits in a dank, Carlsberg can-filled wood just outside Cromford.
Rising up the right-hand side of the Promontory is an enticing line of pockets,
some small, some large. Linked they create one of grits most aesthetic
sculptures. Seb's psychobabble on Meshuga is one of the lasting legacies of
Hard Grit. Coming into the season alot of those I spoke to had this route top
of their winter list. It has been top of mine since I did the neighbouring Hard
Grit classic Gaia, a year ago. </div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Last year I could barely link the route. What a nice feeling
of progression it was when this year I was linking it steadily. It boils down
to two moves. The slap and the rockover. A fall from the first has been taken,
all be it with painful consequences. A fall from the rockover is likely to be a
messy affair. After two sessions this year I was ready. The next good day I
would do it. There followed two weeks of rain and warmth. At the time it seemed
an age, a real indication of how much I wanted this route done. On the next dry
opportunity we made the regular pilgrimage to Cromford. Dad came out to belay
and the lead itself passed without incident or hesitation, full immersion. I
have to thank Rob and Katy in particular for helping me to get this done.
Without a car Black Rocks is a long way from <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place>!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKOF_H-6C0HBGlkf0MnB9GYy_ciMKlWEB2YUv7xAoxsLurlQ5UaSYl31WF_0xdC7-48FvhCoZHR8oxrR-l3dqansYXVpaNSah2ftQSYKpxnE6TTaantHxRYG9iPPMG3E_tqaaJW0gAMEE/s1600/meshuga+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKOF_H-6C0HBGlkf0MnB9GYy_ciMKlWEB2YUv7xAoxsLurlQ5UaSYl31WF_0xdC7-48FvhCoZHR8oxrR-l3dqansYXVpaNSah2ftQSYKpxnE6TTaantHxRYG9iPPMG3E_tqaaJW0gAMEE/s320/meshuga+2.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The Move" on Meshuga</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
What's next? is a question I've heard alot in the past few
weeks. I had no idea. One wet day Katy suggested putting a rope on Knockin On
Heavens Door. This route had somehow slipped my winter target list, and without
her keenness I'm not sure I would have bothered. One time a few years ago I
walked up to Curbar with a shunt and tried it. It was around 25c and the backs
of my legs got sunburnt, optimism and naivety are rarely a good mix. Two years
forward and another gamble was taken on the weather. On a day when the rest of <st1:place w:st="on">Sheffield</st1:place> sheltered in the wall we headed out to Curbar.
It was only for top roping but the few goes we snatched on the route felt like
a steal on such a grim day. Sometimes optimism works out. After Katy and Dave's
Super Sunday at Black Rocks, we had Majestic Monday.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
A day of near perfect Gritstone weather. Not a cloud in the
sky, 6c and windy. The kind of day you wait all year for. The history of
Knockin is chequered. I choose to use the cams below the lip out left. These
"protect" the route though you're still likely to face a nasty fall
from the crux moves. The way I did it seems logical to me, I'd be angry with
myself for avoiding gear and then breaking myself falling off. The route itself
felt like velcro on this perfect Grit afternoon. The lines at Curbar always
seem special to me, perhaps as they're the first routes I ever knew existed. Later
that evening in the fading light we watched Jake climb another of Curbar's
gems; The End of the Affair. A great day. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Second half coming up.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-KdqmwWTCbXPDjvpcXvTwOVCAEPEsJjwjs0ZzW220gUQCKQG7NjsRjxM9DEt7-djAOHKx7dhrCVFBlAHlfE0iRnTmXWjJrPz7Pf8uwHAqm3bGtsVySmuZlo5O8b60vGf1QVLHHZqD0A/s1600/knockin.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6-KdqmwWTCbXPDjvpcXvTwOVCAEPEsJjwjs0ZzW220gUQCKQG7NjsRjxM9DEt7-djAOHKx7dhrCVFBlAHlfE0iRnTmXWjJrPz7Pf8uwHAqm3bGtsVySmuZlo5O8b60vGf1QVLHHZqD0A/s320/knockin.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stretched on Knockin.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-40432702422300292972013-09-24T11:12:00.000-07:002013-09-24T11:12:54.905-07:00Unknown StonesOn the way into Sheffield I stare out across the saturated countryside, its a grim day, the first of winter perhaps. With temperatures dropping and leaves gathering in the gutters its not long before the season begins. Of course when thoughts drift to winter I prefer to remember only the days of perfect crisp weather, rather than the many depressing hours spent inside on the plastic, watching the rain. The bus crawls through the villages and past all the great gritstone outcrops, long ago pillaged of their true lines by the key figures of British climbing's history. There are of course new routes to be done, but most are mere sideshows surrounded by the greatness of the past. As Sheffield approaches I again find my mind transfixed on thoughts of a small group of stones, stuck into the cliff-face, perched above the old mill towns of Lancashire.<br />
<br />
It had begun on a warm, balmy afternoon in the Chew Valley. The day was progressing in the usual unproductive fashion, try this, try that, "too bold", "too snappy". Wimberry is an unusual crag in its angles and dimensions, its bounded by sharp soaring aretes and walls interspersed by deep dark corners and cracks, almost like the keys on a piano. The jewel in the Chew crown has had a special summer, many of its lines have seen rare attention whilst its true last great problem was claimed in a blaze of bamboo canes and grunting. As the day progressed the thought of leaving without doing something, or at least having a reason to return, made me spur into action. I told Oli that I was going to abb a potential new line, being needlessly coy about its location only 30ft away. I guess I just didn't want to jynx it. On first acquaintance the wall had no holds, aside from a small edge with a thumbcatch and a fat pebble just next to it. However, being just this side of slabby, it gave me enough reason to set up the top rope. Working out the moves proved tenuous and tricky, with several holds coming off in the process. After around an hour of practice the moves were done, the crux revolving around the crucial thumbcatch edge. At least now there was reason for return.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8cTqnnF5uvotPfstSrep8YV8zVWA9BSG0OgZZz3RV3clmhuJOTiegU7TxLhWkRX5LgUK_ShyzR6n7gxEdjsB3BG7q_Nu_cHFNl9qfJfKZDhC0pX-lY_-HcBA29T_x3tigpX2Daiyqcyg/s1600/LINE.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8cTqnnF5uvotPfstSrep8YV8zVWA9BSG0OgZZz3RV3clmhuJOTiegU7TxLhWkRX5LgUK_ShyzR6n7gxEdjsB3BG7q_Nu_cHFNl9qfJfKZDhC0pX-lY_-HcBA29T_x3tigpX2Daiyqcyg/s400/LINE.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The red line of Unknown Stones on this Gritstone axehead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For just under a month the line occupied my thoughts. We returned only to be warned about clouds of midges on the walk in, and whenever there was another opportunity the weather callously intervened. After starting to feel as if time were running out to try the line again, I was granted a days belay from Dad. In the cold winds we made that familiar trudge up the hillside. First time up the rock felt sticky, I cruised from the resting hold to the top crux move, I was stunned, the climbing felt easy. Then all of a sudden I was on the rope. Something had happened, and the noise on the thumbcatch edge hitting the ground 15m below let me know loud and clear. At that moment there was a mixture of emotions. Anger at the rocks betrayal, relief at the fact it had snapped on toprope. This was the third "crucial" hold to have fallen off the route now, I needed another new sequence. After more working one came to hand, undercutting a pebble to reach the good holds just below the top. The main downside of the new sequence is that its now the crux of the route and relies pulling pretty hard on a pebble. After working out the traverse over to the resting foothold (moves on Dougie Hall's masterpiece Appointment with Fear) I was able to link the route three times, a real coup considering how badly the day had started. Now there was real reason to return, which was both awful and amazing in equal measure.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbzWT56Qzh_-XdPsr00vfMJ5i20tthxdCJf7zWMTSA227xilYnzqeC7Idkf4h1S9sOnpcw9GrbxAZJbw6wLfx9S2WCYST5p79laXroot3GMUcse8bnn7P0J0Yf6tNdfZUwxwH8W-thSQ/s1600/Step+through.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrbzWT56Qzh_-XdPsr00vfMJ5i20tthxdCJf7zWMTSA227xilYnzqeC7Idkf4h1S9sOnpcw9GrbxAZJbw6wLfx9S2WCYST5p79laXroot3GMUcse8bnn7P0J0Yf6tNdfZUwxwH8W-thSQ/s400/Step+through.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The traverse on Fear</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As the days ticked by I felt more and more nauseous at the
idea of returning, at the idea of climbing on that slab. I thought constantly
about those tiny stones, each one of them a completely unknown quantity, and for all I
knew held in by nothing more than a few square millimetres of coarse moorland
grit. The week crawled to its conclusion, Friday was the day, it had been set
in stone. There were people keen, the weather forecast was good, this was it.
Until it wasn't. It drizzled most of the way there, on arrival the crag was
damp in some places and sodden in others. This had not been forecast. In an act
of blind and naive optimism we set about chalking and towelling the damp rock,
after a few hours of no rain and a strong breeze the route had dried out enough
to work the moves again. I was hesitant to try the slab, pebbles pull out of
damp rock much more readily, and if I lost another of my confidants the route
may cease to exist. Drier and drier the route became, the excuses were slowly
dissipating on the breeze. Two more full links and I'd reached the magic number
in my mind, five.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLEv08KnMMMBRt-RZ2MUZI2matxhKm4XugpRbeFKeTmUW_Vh1ZJs9QTnv5e2fszLdiT3CtKmZRJY_LsEJoIH-Xg7-BvKscRVERjccDEcleewSJZTsfoyIgV-N7Kwy2w6llJQ4y5I8kZ38/s1600/leaving.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLEv08KnMMMBRt-RZ2MUZI2matxhKm4XugpRbeFKeTmUW_Vh1ZJs9QTnv5e2fszLdiT3CtKmZRJY_LsEJoIH-Xg7-BvKscRVERjccDEcleewSJZTsfoyIgV-N7Kwy2w6llJQ4y5I8kZ38/s400/leaving.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving the sanctuary of the foothold</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Everything was set up, pads on the ledge and my rope
through a siderunner in the crack. Both become redundant as soon as Fear is
left, and from the last crux move a 13m deck or slam is obligatory. Pull on,
swing out, the crux mantle on Fear runs smoothly on the now dry slab. Stand in
balance, tug the rope, its dragging. Commit to the next section of Fear, a
balancy step through and rockover. Stood on the resting foothold the situation suddenly becomes all too real. My position, standing on the lip of this great
axe of rock slicing clean through any thought of control. The option to doubt
yourself there is immense and, like a certain slab in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Wales</st1:country-region>, you have
to choose to continue.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJAInFzYkwMyEKMOvuxltAKg92ztZH7eCuWICDqZh86QVkiKIZxwvSC796RS-EqPz7_dtY3k21PTZeXnHm6HReP_2wrMbNjVNMACk0j0ljapMnQmnM7TLtj0bhsibYEjr_vX-2u3W93c/s1600/Mid+crux.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisJAInFzYkwMyEKMOvuxltAKg92ztZH7eCuWICDqZh86QVkiKIZxwvSC796RS-EqPz7_dtY3k21PTZeXnHm6HReP_2wrMbNjVNMACk0j0ljapMnQmnM7TLtj0bhsibYEjr_vX-2u3W93c/s400/Mid+crux.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pausing Mid-Crux</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After a few tricky set up moves the long crux section is
reached. Thumb down on one pebble, pull hard on pebbly crimp, reach over for a
tiny pebble. Then its another tiny pebble, then a good pebble, undercut this to
the good holds. Halfway through this sequence and I pause, the rope is
dragging. I experience a feeling new to me within the realms of hard grit
climbing, a complete lack of control. In that instant there is no choice to be
made, instinct kicks in and you keep pulling, no matter how fragile the little
quartz stumps. The good holds are reached about two metres below the top, and
so begins the victory march. When the jug is reached I'm in no rush to top out.
This route has dominated my thoughts for weeks, and now I let the relief wash
over me. Even after topping out its a few seconds before the inevitable release
of anguish. Lent on my knees at the top I wasn't
sure that I had climbed the route with the respect it deserves, but perhaps it had let me off.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMFA2Hq-B3HI5P63P1hEUnqyPr8Dsp0xdlRk2CAKpa9zmjl7Jkru43TbWOO6UaHwUqO-4np3Hqf8cjBFqaeJLS7GyTGeApvzQGirEc18GgpGP1lkAZZBrDyLdKdOt5uZQjYWb1k1Ml6nw/s1600/top+crux.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMFA2Hq-B3HI5P63P1hEUnqyPr8Dsp0xdlRk2CAKpa9zmjl7Jkru43TbWOO6UaHwUqO-4np3Hqf8cjBFqaeJLS7GyTGeApvzQGirEc18GgpGP1lkAZZBrDyLdKdOt5uZQjYWb1k1Ml6nw/s400/top+crux.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reaching salvation</td></tr>
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In the past few weeks I've had time to consider everything
about this route. I think I'll get the boring stuff out the way first. The
route is physically harder and more dangerous than its neighbour Appointment
With Death. On this basis and comparing it to the other E7-8s I've done Unknown
Stones is likely to be at least E9 6c.</div>
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I think I'll finish with these thoughts. Why do I and some
people obsess over these kind of routes? My motivation to do this route came from
several sources. Firstly it always stuck out to me as an obvious gap, I appreciate
it may look slightly contrived to some, but I can assure you that were the line
escapable into either of its neighbouring routes I wouldn't have bothered doing
it. It is only the direction and location of the holds that make
it possible, yet also inescapable. Secondly the moves on it are great, its a good example of
minimalist climbing, with only just enough holds to link the wall. Lose one of
the crucial ones and it would be far, far harder. So, as far as the climbing
and the line go, its a great addition. Of course there is also the mental aspect. Routes like this captivate my mind in a way that no boulder or sport route ever could. You really have to question your motivation and then back yourself to the hilt when climbing on the lead. Second thoughts are not welcome, and its the challenge of controlling this gathering doubt that is so interesting.<br />
<br />
Further interest came from
establishing a new line on what is arguably (sorry b-south) the most hardcore
grit crag in the country. Every line has a level of distinction. The
"easy" routes being known for their sandbag difficulty and almost all
of the harder lines characterised by their utter seriousness and complete lack
of meaningful gear. Finally, climbing a new route means leaving your mark,<span style="font-size: 12pt;"> you're writing a piece of history, on
something that had been and will be there long after you've gone.</span> I deny anyone to claim that
this has no bearing on their thoughts when considering a new route, even if
they're primarily climbing for the line or themselves. I think that is enough of that,
you've done very well to read to here.</div>
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Thanks alot to Neil, Steve and the ever-patient Mike Hutton for waiting around on the day, belaying and helping me to dry the route!<br />
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In the end, when I weighed everything up this route just seemed worth it. In hindsight perhaps it wasn't. Clear cut as ever. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy eejit.</td></tr>
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<br />Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-22623694239215637192013-07-17T07:54:00.003-07:002013-07-17T07:54:56.128-07:00Deep Water and Lime FailureBeing a weak swimmer and having a general dislike for all things watery made me apprehensive going into my first deep water soloing trip. Luckily Jon and Emlyn had expressed similar doubts and were both relatively new to the style. It usually takes very hot weather to get me in the drink and funnily enough thats what we had. The temperature dictated the venue for the weekend, go climb some sweaty slab on cloggy, or go jump in the sea, easy choice...<br />
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After the quick 5 hour drive down on Thursday evening we set up camp in Langton Matravers and quickly hit the hay. The first day was to be spent at Stair Hole at Lulworth. Home to many of the classic DWS's such as Mark of the Beast and Horny lil Devil. After a quick lap round the Maypole we set to work on the latter, and it saw the first splash downs of the weekend with both Emlyn and Rees plunging off the middle crux section.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd51zWYIrOKS2SyAirxS89AvxU77IrXVMVKTfwZK4EfcihrD-zVO4KoKYPSRWLZyU04DDbDM1zf5d_eIuWJiV6bXLAy3iJmhzSX0j3Is0qOENxaD_EWmaZLsnG3Bx2DLMjWRdLC1ff9Rw/s1600/DSC00041.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd51zWYIrOKS2SyAirxS89AvxU77IrXVMVKTfwZK4EfcihrD-zVO4KoKYPSRWLZyU04DDbDM1zf5d_eIuWJiV6bXLAy3iJmhzSX0j3Is0qOENxaD_EWmaZLsnG3Bx2DLMjWRdLC1ff9Rw/s320/DSC00041.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jon on the Lil Devil 7a</td></tr>
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The rest of the day was spent durdling about ticking various other classics including Hornier Than Thou and Animal Magnetism. The plan for Saturday was to head to Conner Cove. This is where I think of when I imagine DWS, as there are so many classics, many of them at pretty amendable grades. The three I'd planned on trying all went smoothly. Freeborn Man, pic below, was as good as the hype, with a scary rockover way up. The Conger, a classic E2 traverse, had great balancy moves never far above the sea and Fathoms was truly stunning, a rising flake to a jug which gives you unwelcome time to think about where you are. Once committed though the moves flow steadily to the top.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPGdAykC-Q9w-YWMOiCe292mqWmobWM7AFX3Pm2Yba9lGxyPglOy_VgS8loMJb7PInS38degCZsY5vkEz1qd8J1ertpdB98DzrFfIn372aQeaokhC1W46-4ZjCL6yksGQSfuSHix2Nq4/s1600/DSC00064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVPGdAykC-Q9w-YWMOiCe292mqWmobWM7AFX3Pm2Yba9lGxyPglOy_VgS8loMJb7PInS38degCZsY5vkEz1qd8J1ertpdB98DzrFfIn372aQeaokhC1W46-4ZjCL6yksGQSfuSHix2Nq4/s320/DSC00064.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freeborn Man 6c</td></tr>
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Our final and hottest day was spent back at Lulworth, it was a fair bit greasier than Friday, and there was more falling in than ticking. Kim took a sideways fall off Mark of the Beast and I dropped off Gates of Greyskull a few times lacking in commitment. After that we headed back to Sheffield, I can't wait to get back down there, it really is the best thing to do in this weather!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRjogwq6GpVaQ3GL7SatsVdzQpctyxANkVIQAe4NDeEnT_CKRSDZNGu_O5RcgrCovwY9rkYOF2bJgyhWFrG1XHW-8n8VyW0gqKDEVL6UfVyYAWr_lcPBJnHnsLf2nviR2Rt6UBys-WJdk/s1600/kim.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRjogwq6GpVaQ3GL7SatsVdzQpctyxANkVIQAe4NDeEnT_CKRSDZNGu_O5RcgrCovwY9rkYOF2bJgyhWFrG1XHW-8n8VyW0gqKDEVL6UfVyYAWr_lcPBJnHnsLf2nviR2Rt6UBys-WJdk/s320/kim.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kim off a greasy Mark of the Beast 7c</td></tr>
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Aside from this trip the past few months have been pretty quiet, with a few low 8 and high 7 sport routes and some nice easier trad climbing. Having ticked my aim for the year by doing Appointment and then making the second ascent of the mythical Lets Get Killed just a few days later I felt a nice lack of pressure for a couple of weeks. After that wore off (it always does) its been on with lime projecting, and bashing my head against the brick wall of chronic weakness. I'm getting there though, and have some sport projects which should see me break new personal ground in the next few weeks. </div>
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-44768213208794048622013-05-07T06:27:00.000-07:002013-05-07T06:28:53.885-07:00Super SaturdayAt a bit of a loose end last week, struggling on the limestone and looking for partners for the days of brilliant weather ahead, I gave Tom a text asking what he was up to. He replied with some juicy gossip; he would be around one day, but the other would be spent belaying Pete on his secret project. Of course I interrogated Tom about the project, but being true to Pete he wouldn't reveal its location, only saying that it was probably "his hardest yet". We arranged an appointment to head to the grit crag of Wimberry in the Chew Valley on Thursday. As we headed over I asked Tom what he had his sights on. "You on appointment with fear?" He replied "Nah, Appointment with Death". My stomach dropped. This is one route I never thought would see much attention, as its a whirling mass of dangerous possibilities. Snappy pebbles, no gear, a high crux, all the makings of a real grit horror show. However, he reassured me the pebbles were OK and that he'd done the moves with Pete a few days before. Then it clicked, Pete's project was on Wimberry and it was the big one.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyBd4uSxZEk-Mh_6H-IWpbJ56rgD3_FYOX63aao-Mw6YqAIkOOUhU1srfQFkwG9-_EqOTQQ5TqFZKjoZ_jfEeqDnTMXart6MhhG-dgVkiNuVAHaeH5GH6QYNElFvc2yz7oI5VJgV5HKSk/s1600/wimber.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyBd4uSxZEk-Mh_6H-IWpbJ56rgD3_FYOX63aao-Mw6YqAIkOOUhU1srfQFkwG9-_EqOTQQ5TqFZKjoZ_jfEeqDnTMXart6MhhG-dgVkiNuVAHaeH5GH6QYNElFvc2yz7oI5VJgV5HKSk/s400/wimber.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wimberry, best hard grit crag?</td></tr>
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That day I had no idea where to start, Jon Fullwood said that he'd been there when Ben Heason made the second ascent of <a href="https://vimeo.com/6831598" target="_blank">Order of the Phoenix</a>, so that was on the list, but then again so was everything else.... As I walked round to the top of the crag, I remembered something I'd seen in the guide, an arete that was only climbed on one side, leaving the other side open to exploitation. It was better than I'd imagined, high, well featured and most importantly not done. I set to work cleaning and it became my main focus for the day. We took turns on our projects, Tom looking very solid on Appointment, saying a lead might be soon and reassuring me that its not so bad (hmmm). After dialling my route on top rope I nipped up it in shaky style, at one point staring straight into the sun when reaching a crucial crimp which made me wobble a bit! It feels great to have made an FA at this mecca of hard grit. I named the route Disconsolate as I'm a moody boy (and the arete on the left is called consolation prize...) After this we opted for abbing and cleaning other projects and lines, it was Order of the Phoenix for me and after a good brushing to get the moorland gunk off, I got some of the moves done. Then it was home time, set for a rendezvous on Saturday.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVVtAkBMGFQwYqoxLAT1FQXGh7ixqTvA5_C7fBjVYWYxKlNpcQV8Lyys6Oe2Kn-AI-VJ0C2x5LuZ2WtAfj62FEbz9nsl0VvT3mUephxkVOoK58A-FK7RBpCKuY8sIVWisRqC4PCbB-2Y/s1600/dons.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVVtAkBMGFQwYqoxLAT1FQXGh7ixqTvA5_C7fBjVYWYxKlNpcQV8Lyys6Oe2Kn-AI-VJ0C2x5LuZ2WtAfj62FEbz9nsl0VvT3mUephxkVOoK58A-FK7RBpCKuY8sIVWisRqC4PCbB-2Y/s400/dons.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High on the FA of Disconsolate</td></tr>
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Saturday dawned dank and grim. On the drive over it was more of the same, showers, wet road and black clouds, not looking promising. Adrian Samarra (hot aches pro) had been drafted in by Wild Country to film Pete and Tom, and he was well assisted by two keen-as students down from Cumbria. As we approached the crag it was surprisingly dry, the rock was with us. Everyone got busy on there routes, Pete working on his down-climbing and inventive gear clipping methods, Tom lapping away on Appointment, and me floundering/nursing a split tip from the key crux pebble on Phoenix.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9HaRz83ikcRLIEOr5FC2ImnuzgM5teagDeTRQP5KYgsgZUuW4J1P3cBe-MZE0zAUC0X1G0kPDhJSn4FZoJenfCBKkBggxoJuvAwODqXCvOlmgZUxLDIdn0Q68VWWafqUUX6qsJofus1w/s1600/order.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9HaRz83ikcRLIEOr5FC2ImnuzgM5teagDeTRQP5KYgsgZUuW4J1P3cBe-MZE0zAUC0X1G0kPDhJSn4FZoJenfCBKkBggxoJuvAwODqXCvOlmgZUxLDIdn0Q68VWWafqUUX6qsJofus1w/s400/order.jpg" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Order of the Phoenix (Cheers to Pete, great photo!)</td></tr>
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Tom's project went first, and he's written a superb account <a href="http://tomrandallclimbing.wordpress.com/" target="_blank">here</a> in two parts. It was a stunning piece of commitment, and one of the biggest repeats on grit in the past few years, no jams on it either interestingly. It was then my turn on the Phoenix. Having stopped top roping it due to thin skin I hadn't managed a full link, but team psyche is more than enough to make for any doubts! The ascent was a bit scratchy down low, but felt steady on the no fall moves, aside from the crux pebble cutting my finger even worse. This must be the most at ease I've felt on/before a hard headpoint, which just goes to show what kind of day it was, steady away on unsteady ground. Here's a <a href="https://vimeo.com/65629719" target="_blank">video of my ascent.</a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuUrk10Gj-yFsHCF0PjS0j0bkxeHUE-ZNegSanfaP6sHgGSCzmTS38wiUhLqBN2dLfHegCtNBVfqLDe6x0HdzL_iILsX5FyKw1GXCzHLfQTEUdNmCF2ygFGhgy0l3qbLcIhsFCO_lYcfg/s1600/pete+prow.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuUrk10Gj-yFsHCF0PjS0j0bkxeHUE-ZNegSanfaP6sHgGSCzmTS38wiUhLqBN2dLfHegCtNBVfqLDe6x0HdzL_iILsX5FyKw1GXCzHLfQTEUdNmCF2ygFGhgy0l3qbLcIhsFCO_lYcfg/s400/pete+prow.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pete on the prow... </td></tr>
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I'll leave Pete to give his account. All I can say is that its now three days on and I'm still buzzing, one of the best leads in grits history no doubt, and what a day it crowned, I won't be forgetting that one in a hurry.<br />
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Adrian Samarra supported by Matt and James captured both Tom and Pete's historic ascents for Hot Aches, and Mike Hutton got some cracking shots.<br />
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Not much more that can be said about the day really, I've run out of superlatives. Everything went right, the weather, the timing, the big efforts, the filming. I'll be back soon though, another Appointment has been made and its not one I can skip.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSpYVr9O0x1GBttMWh-3Ss0nY003cMWzlpeFH009MA-aL0vG5AFdKn0QPpOKfP0fmvCL5dSCbjY73iAw6BGidcn50r289F64Y3KLLEka3kGejX88Xew3tnF4KsszNfrkAFkfw_2nOFgnM/s1600/appointment.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSpYVr9O0x1GBttMWh-3Ss0nY003cMWzlpeFH009MA-aL0vG5AFdKn0QPpOKfP0fmvCL5dSCbjY73iAw6BGidcn50r289F64Y3KLLEka3kGejX88Xew3tnF4KsszNfrkAFkfw_2nOFgnM/s400/appointment.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tom in cruise control on Appointment With Death</td></tr>
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Thanks alot for reading!<br />
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<br />Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-11029500882750283952013-04-13T11:21:00.000-07:002013-04-13T11:46:26.248-07:00Nah'han<a href="https://vimeo.com/63963586">https://vimeo.com/63963586</a><br />
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Several months ago <b>Jon Fullwood</b> kindly informed me of a new route opportunity at <b>Gardoms</b>, saying it was probably too bold for him and that it would be a <b>classic</b>. "Cool, I'll get to it" I said. Two months later Jon was again talking about this line, how he'd found a kneebar on it and that it would probably be E7 or maybe even E8. Again, I said I'd look at it. The grit season passed quickly with trips and many sessions spent falling off boulder projects, until just before my trip to <b>Switerland</b> I got a text from <b>Tom Randall</b>. It read something along to the lines of "how much do you know about the direct on make it snappy? fancy trying it?". My heart sunk, I hadn't tried it and therefore I couldnt even try and play the pathetic "please let me do it first as its my proj" card. It was an open project, and I wouldn't be on it for another two weeks.<br />
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During my <b>Swiss</b> trip I forgot about the line, like so many times before. Until near the end I texted <b>Tom</b> asking him if he'd been on it. He had, saying that he'd done it a few days previous and that it was perhaps <b>E8</b>. I was pretty gutted, but quickly shook off the feelings of regret ("You should've gone and done it you idiot!!") Instead I simply had a new<b> E8</b> to go and try on my return, and looking at the video in the cafe, it looked right up my street. </div>
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First day back in the <b>Peak</b> I headed straight there by myself and set up a top rope. I shunted all the moves in the first hour or so, the crux last move to the break feeling ok at this point. I then linked it in two, then in one, the last move not feeling so bad, and the rest feeling fine. I rang Dad and asked if he could come give me a belay after work. He agreed, so I stashed the gear and went home, having forgotten to bring food and not wanting to hang about at<b> Gardoms</b> for 4 hours. </div>
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Later we returned, it was a great evening, more sunny and warm than it had been during the day, the golden light shining through the birch and oak trees. After checking the gear out I tried the route from the ground, but fell at the last move to the break, the holds feeling slippery. Perhaps I was tired, perhaps it was the conditions, I was now wondering about the lead, it had felt so sure only an hour earlier. Dad then tried the line as it cooled down and made short work of the slappy compression moves. Conditions must have improved, as I then top roped the route in one with no hitches. Lead time. </div>
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It all went pretty smoothly, with the odd adjustment, to the last move to the break. As I hit the left hand set up sloper the hold seemed sweaty when before it had felt cold and sticky, this made the last move to the break a proper all or nothing slap. I didn't quite hit the hold spot on either, hitting the rock above and dragging onto the hold. Ie, it was a close one.</div>
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The final easy moves done and it was in the satchel, <b>"You fucking idiot, why didn't you listen to Jon...."</b></div>
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Dad then swept up the <b>4th ascent</b>, looking a little slappy on the way,<b> but E8 at 51 can't be bad can it?</b></div>
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Quickly on the subject of the grade; it seems to be unfashionable to talk about grades properly at the moment, so I'll be quick. If I was grading the route as a first ascent, I'd have given it<b> E7</b>, but that means little. The style of the route fits me well and the fall didn't look like it would be horrific. Besides, those who have graded it know alot more than I do on the subject. Whatever it settles down to, its a great piece of rock that should become popular. I predict ascents!<br />
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Now its time to crack on with <b>one project in particular</b>, aswell as everything else that comes with summer, <b>wet weather, midges, seepage and humidity.</b><br />
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Moral for the day, <b>listen to Jon.</b><br />
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Nathan.</div>
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Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-83188064671480479882013-04-12T12:19:00.000-07:002013-04-12T12:19:33.449-07:00Spain, Swizzy and the Summer ahead.<b>Hello</b>. When I wrote my last entry I was training in the wall a little bit (training being lapping 6as...) for my trip to <b>Spain</b> in late Feb. During the trip we visited the classic, yet quiet, Limestone venue of <b>Wild Side</b> in <b>Sella</b>. The last time I had climbed there was two years previous, where I had climbed my first 7a+ (which i was pretty chuffed about at the time!) This time I was there to focus on the classic 8as, with<b> Ergometria</b> and <b>Watermark</b> being the two that were most recomended by friends. I ticked <b>Ergometria </b>on the 2nd day, which was pretty surprising and went on to do the best route of my trip, <b>Mediterraneo</b>, a classy 8a with a very high crux sequence! All in all it was an ace trip, although the rain did ruin my ambitions of ticking <b>Watermark</b> aswell.<br />
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Between this trip and <b>Switzerland</b> I had two weeks of very little tickage. I played on <b>The Zone</b> at <b>Curbar </b>once, got the moves pretty wired and penciled it in as a post swizzy project. Unfortunately the psyche hasn't materialised yet and I find myself looking to other things.<br />
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Anyways, back to the trips. I realised in the week leading up to<b> Switzerland </b>that I wasn't going to be strong enough for the trip, which was a shame, but it was too late to solve it (learn for future...) Despite this it was a pretty fruitful trip ticking wise. Highlights being the stunning <b>Confession of a Crap Artist</b> ("Its Chaos Man!"), the uber classic <b>Dr Crimp</b> (first problem I saw abroad, leah crane vid..) and doing a whole bunch of classic 7as and bs. Waddage to <b>Mr Carmichael </b>and <b>Chris 'Elijah' Smith</b> who both went hard, then went home. I should have a video of this trip up soon. In the meantime check out george's.<br />
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The one thing which pained me most in<b> Switzerland</b> was hearing of the amount of snow back home, and looking at the photos of the snowballing in the cafe near the end of the trip left me feeling homesick. So when I arrived home (after toms thing, next post!) the first thing I wanted to do was get to the platforms. As promised they were still there, under all the classics of the<b> Stanage and Burbag</b>e snowball circuit. We checked out<b> Black Car</b> and flailed about, then quickly moved to the popular end where we despatched <b>Shine On and Cemetery Waits</b>. <b>Shine On</b> temporarily being the best 7a+ in the Peak! Next up was Burbage North where <b>Mark Rankine</b> had been busy building a platform under<b> Nefertiti.</b> This is usually a highball with pads anyway, and with the snow it was a boulder, which meant it could climbed with fun jumps to holds rather than static locks. Another problem in that vein was <b>Puck</b>, which was climbed via a wild dyno! Cheers to <b>Mark</b> for the effort on <b>Nefertiti </b>and everyone else who has built platforms, I wish I could've been there to help!<br />
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Now attention turns to bigger things, I feel like I've not done anything properly hard for months, so hopefully I can take it up a notch soon..... provided the temps don't go through the roof.<br />
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Ciao Grazi.<br />
Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-11570907936529634812013-02-06T11:27:00.002-08:002013-02-06T11:31:32.342-08:00The season so far, and a great weekendNot posted in a while, so I've got plenty to report on from the last few months. Before christmas when I was still in route mode I had a few great days, highlights being a scary day on Bamford and a headpoint of my long term target Simba's Pride. Having recently watched Ben Cossey walk up it on Committed 1 its got me psyched for getting stronger and fitter, after all, any more control on solo's is always welcome. Couple of videos of these below.<br />
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Simbas - <a href="https://vimeo.com/53369748">https://vimeo.com/53369748</a><br />
Bamford - <a href="https://vimeo.com/53890693">https://vimeo.com/53890693</a><br />
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After a "Christmas training regime" which involved not training and eating alot, I headed out to Font with a big group. It was a pretty mixed trip climbing wise, with only a few dry days and warm temperatures, but despite the grim weather some hard lines went down. One day of crushing on Mont Pivot in particular will live long in the memory. <br />
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After returning from Font, January has been a predictably unproductive month, spent mostly training for a trip to Spain in late February and staring out at the rain. However when there have been breaks in the cloud they've been put to good use. On one clear, crisp weekend I mananged to gather a couple of good ticks in Spare Rib at Stanton and Bat Out of Hell at Higgar. The latter really highlighted my fitness issues, I look forward to the day when I can climb 10 metres without desperate slapping!<br />
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At the moment I'm definatley feeling a transition back into route focus after two months of blocs, and I've got a few trad projects lined up to work on over the next weeks and months. This was hopefully started off at the weekend with a tick of Simon Nadins classic Roaches E7 Paralogism. The route takes a very steep and bouldery line over a large roof. The route boils down to about V6 where you wouldn't want to fall, into glory jugs, with an obligatory cutloose for photos at the lip! I'll stick a video of this on over the weekend!<br />
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Thanks alot to Andi Turner for the photos, by the looks of it he'll be ticking this route very soon!<br />
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Last but by no means least, we had a great time with the Mammut Pros Jakob Schubert and Anna Stohr on there whistle stop visit. The day at the Foundry was great fun, we spent some time flailing on the Wave, helping out those who'd won a place on the Mammut masterclasses and watching Jakob and Anna crush everything in sight! Thanks alot to Mike Hutton for some brilliant pics of the weekend and of course to the Foundry for putting up with us, especially oli and his bacon obsession.<br />
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Below are some photos from the weekend!<br />
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<br />Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-34475815098437763232012-10-28T12:28:00.001-07:002012-10-28T12:28:26.979-07:00It begins...Yo,<br />
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The past few weeks have seen the ushering in of the <strong>grit season</strong>, leaves falling, thermostats dropping and grip increasing. This is my favourite time of the year, and despite the weather not being perfect I've managed a few great days out on the grit of late.<br />
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Through early October I spent most of time completing bouldering projects from last year. Its always a nice feeling when things feel much easier, and retrospectively I'm happy that I spent most of my summer in the cave at <strong>Raven Tor</strong> getting stronger. Theres a quick video below of some of the classic gritstone blocs I finished recently including my major nemesis <strong>The Terrace</strong> and the neo classic <strong>Mossatrocity</strong>.<br />
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<strong>Video of Grit Boulders</strong> - <a href="https://vimeo.com/51595830">https://vimeo.com/51595830</a><br />
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Since then Ive decided to focus on my trad. My main regret from last winter was wasting too much time sieging boulders when i could've been out on grit routes. Ive been trying <strong>Simbas Pride</strong> of late and I'm keen to get back to <strong>Burbage South</strong> and finish that off soon. Otherwise, I had a great day at <strong>Ramshaw</strong> where I headpointed the <strong>Simon Nadin</strong> Classic, <strong>Dangerous Crocodile Snogging</strong>. This routes has some superb and unique moves and covers a stunning line. It shares the buttress with the arguably even more impressive <strong>Clippety Clop</strong>, I will have to go back for that one. <br />
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Finally, yesterday I made an ascent of <strong>Gaia</strong> at <strong>Black Rocks</strong>. Id tried this route once before last year but was unable to do certain moves due to temperature/general punting. But on Friday the weather was great; cold wind, cloudy, 4c, gritstone perfection! The lead went without a hitch and as I left the top groove I had no fear of doing a <strong>Jean Minh</strong> style swing into the arete below! I find it hard to comprehend the mental toughness and confidence that the people who've flashed this route must have, they are the true heroes without doubt.<br />
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<strong>Theres a video of these ascents here</strong> - <a href="https://vimeo.com/52278354">https://vimeo.com/52278354</a><br />
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<strong>Onwards and upwards</strong>,<br />
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Ciao, Leeroy.Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-14708612368702373442012-09-10T15:10:00.000-07:002012-09-10T15:13:43.218-07:00Quick UpdateDespite this record summer of dankness its been a good one. Sometimes its good to not be able to climb at the crags you want to, it reminds you not to take days of dry weather for granted and means that when you finally get to them you're even more up for stuff. Good things are worth waiting for, unfortunatley for the cornice-ites that means next june.....<br />
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On a personal level this summer has been ok. I haven't spent anywhere near as much time on lime as I expected and I haven't been able to makes the visits to Yorkshire that I hoped I would. On the other hand its been a bumper moorland summer. Ive spent several days on Kinder and other moorland crags repeating stunning lines like Highball That You Bastards and more recently Bloodrush at Shining Clough. Aswell as these, me and others have been developing the bouldering potential around Kinder. On both the Northern and Southern edges we've found some stunning boulders and I'm currently working on a video that will document the best that Kinder has to offer bouldering wise.<br />
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One of the Kinder gems, Info available soon.<br />
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Aside from this I've spent a few days in both North Wales and the Lakes (video of random problems soon.)<br />
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Currently looking forward to the cold winds to arrive, Im determined this winter is going to be a big one. <br />
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Nathan.<br />
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<br />Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-7834991036008686242012-08-01T14:38:00.000-07:002012-08-01T14:38:27.575-07:00Best of NessWhen I first visited <strong>Nesscliffe</strong> two years ago it blew me away. The hardest thing I did was an E1 solo and a 6b boulder, at that time it was a great day. I've been back twice since and both times I've felt that familiar euphoria whilst staring up at the collossal lines. <br />
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Having done the classic Dixon arete, <strong>My Piano</strong> last time this trip was to be focused on more volume. We got straight on the unique corner of <strong>Tombola</strong> and after a few goes on TR me and dad both led it smoothly. I may post a bad video of this ascent at some point, keep posted on Vimeo...<br />
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We again met up with the Nesscliffe locals <strong>Patricia Novelli and Jonathon Cain</strong> who had rigged ropes above several routes. I noticed a rope above another potential target, <strong>Gathering Sun</strong>. This route climbs an immaculate wall of sandstone on adequate gear with a <strong>hard 6b crux</strong> at the very top. After doing it on a rope and finding enough gear I led it, but not without several shakey moments, including jumping to the top of the crag! The route used to be <strong>E8</strong> but has now settled at <strong>E7</strong> and along with <strong>Tombola</strong> and <strong>My Piano</strong> it provides yet another three star experience!<br />
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Another Nesscliffe local <strong>Phil Black</strong> filmed my ascent and the video is here-<br />
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/46705178">https://vimeo.com/46705178</a><br />
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Too finish the day I made a shakey flash of the <strong>E5 Cones and Currents</strong> and Dad onsighted <strong>Trouble in ToyTown. </strong><br />
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Personally this day was up there with the best, Nesscliffe is my perfect crag.<br />
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Boothy's mega route Local Rite, Une Jeune and perhaps a look at Nick's E9 will make sure I return soon!<br />
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Lee, Ciao.Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-38137425343666940962012-07-24T15:44:00.001-07:002012-07-24T15:53:25.257-07:00Highball That!The new BMC Over The Moors guidebook must be the best climbing guide I've ever seen, chocked full of new inspiration that makes the oft long walk-ins breeze by!<br />
After spending a great day highballing on Kinder South last week we got another day planned out and quickly made the hour and half hike up to the north side of Kinder. Whilst flicking through the guide on the way there I noticed a superb looking line with a name to match. The photo blew me away and I knew I would have to at least take a look at it that day.<br />
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We warmed up soloing on <strong>Legacy</strong> a superb <strong>HVS</strong> and I did the very reach dependant <strong>Big Brother E2</strong>. After this we headed along the edge to take a look at the line. Straight off it looked very intimidating with a steep bouldery landing and no obvious good holds. On ab inspection I found some positive but rather snappy looking holds. After a few hours work and convincing myself the holds were solid I led the route. Pulling through the crux the exposure felt great and I quickly made my way to the top. The route weighs in at <strong>E7 6b</strong> and I think it was the the 2nd ascent of this <strong>Tetler</strong> (legend) testpiece. Its well worth the walk and its up there with the best routes I've ever done! <strong>Highball That You Bastards!</strong> <strong>The challenge remains!</strong><br />
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Theres a video here - <br />
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/46296707">https://vimeo.com/46296707</a><br />
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More moorland days to come I hope.....<br />
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In other news I made a quick redpoint of <strong>Little Boots</strong> at the Tor this morning. This cool little <strong>7c</strong> has some nice moves on small holds and is well worth trying!<br />
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<strong>Leeroy</strong>, X.Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-61451643815687528522012-07-19T03:06:00.001-07:002012-07-19T03:06:32.379-07:00It Never Rains, It PoursUnless you've been living under a rock or in a quiet corner of the works (best bet at the moment) then youll have realised that this summer has been a total washout. Cornice never dry, pools under Rubicon and Garage Buttress busier than ever with people desperatly trying to find dry bolts to clipstick. This lack of venues has led me to find solace in the arms of the mighty Raven Tor, which middle routes are almost perma-dry. <br />
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After climbing a couple of the middle <strong>7c's</strong> (<strong>Obscene Gesture / Toilet</strong>) I turned my attention to the <strong>8a</strong>, <strong>The Call Of Nature</strong>. <strong>Oli G</strong> had done this a few months before and had said it was a good first<strong> 8a</strong>. After a session failing to get anywhere I'd written it off really, but getting back on it in cool conditions it felt fine and I managed it next session. One more step to the <strong>three eights</strong> now!<br />
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Other standout days for the summer so far include an awesome day on <strong>Kinder</strong> doing some highballs and a couple of first ascents on the boulders. Video Below.<br />
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/45973473">http://vimeo.com/45973473</a><br />
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Anyways, good long term forecast so hopefully I'll get a few good sessions over the next few weeks on the limestone and the moorland grit!<br />
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Keep up to date with activities on the Logbook! <br />
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<a href="http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=105219">http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=105219</a><br />
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Ciao, Lee.<br />
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<br />Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-36716717487132780212012-05-31T14:32:00.001-07:002012-05-31T14:39:32.160-07:00Recent DevelopmentsA fair bit has happened in the last month or so. A few firsts for myself including first 7c+ sport route and first font 7c on lime. Its been very much lime season of late with the temperatures topping 26c, however before this period a had a few good days on the grit. <br />
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Here are some videos from the last few weeks.<br />
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/42401846" target="_blank">Candy Kaned</a><br />
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<a href="https://vimeo.com/42631310" target="_blank">Houndkirk Tor Bouldering</a><br />
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More recently I've spent a few nice evenings down at the newly rebolted Moat Buttress in Water Cum Jolly Dale. Its been great climbing in a new location in the peak on lovely non-polished rock. The stand out routes were Moat People 7b+ and Let the Tripe Increase 7c. Props to Kris Clemmow for putting the time into retrobolting the area!<br />
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Off to the Tarn Gorge tonight with the family, will report back soonish.<br />
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ciao.Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-22411061311945359792012-05-01T05:35:00.002-07:002012-05-01T14:15:25.385-07:00Stag in FontLast Thursday. Another day spent indoors as the rain lashed the Peak. Cabin fever strating to set in and a look at the forecast only compounded my misery. That was until I recieved an unexpected offer from a friend to join him on a trip to Font. Someone had dropped out of a stag week and they needed somebody to fill in on short notice. Although the weather forecast for Font looked poor I quickly agreed to join them. The next week was a great experience, the weather was patchy yet we managed to climb 6 days of 7.<br />
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Best bits of the trip were seeing Steve flash just about every 7a he tried, Carl climb the legendary Marie Rose, Lee conquer Onde De Choc, Guy go a-muerte on Egoiste and of course Tom's legendary top out of Le Coeur. It was also a great personal trip, especially on the volume of problems, 18 of 7a-7b+.<br />
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Here are some pics taken on the trip. Thanks to Guy, Joe and Nick for most of these.<br />
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Nath.Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-37376290108223377132012-04-19T09:41:00.001-07:002012-04-19T09:41:42.707-07:00Day After DayRecently I've been very busy climbing wise. The weather (although now woeful) has been superb over the past few weeks and its enabled many long and fun days out on the rock. The best ticks of this purple patch include finishing off two old projects in the form off <strong>Genocide</strong> and <strong>Ben's Wall </strong>on the Southern Grit<strong> </strong>and soloing the in-vogue <strong>Churnet</strong> highball, <strong>The Pride. </strong><br />
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Despite these ticks the most encouarging day I had of late was at <strong>Black Rocks. </strong>Its been a goal of mine for a while to try and climb an <strong>E9</strong> and the <strong>Hard Grit</strong> classic <strong>Meshuga</strong> is top of the list. This day was the first time I'd tried it and I was pleasantly suprised by the difficulty and the size of the holds (Id built them up to be tiny and slopey in my head). I managed all the moves quickly and more or less climbed it in two halves. It feels like fitness is holding me back on this one but that is ok, I'll only get fitter spending the summer on steep peak limestone. Although shelved for now I feel like this route will be a possibility for next winter!<br />
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More recently the weather has been fairly patchy with the April Showers setting in. Despite this I've still managed some cool days out. The esoteric <strong>Shining Cliff</strong> provided the perfect location in the showery weather, where Me and Dad made short work of the classic <strong>E5 Lazy Day</strong>. This is a bizarre route that follows a perfect quarried grit arete, not sound so strange? well, the catch is that it can be protected by an old ladder of bolts to the left, making it an odd F6b+. Dad did it with, and sunsequently without, the suspect bolts and I made a nervy flash without. <br />
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Such a shame the weather has gone to shit now, getting cabin fever sitting in the house for days on end. There is a light at the end of the tunnel though, off to the popular <strong>Anston Stones</strong> on Friday. Psyched for this.<br />
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Lee, Ciao.<br />
<br />Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4944863669729819895.post-74160257569193821952012-04-03T05:02:00.001-07:002012-04-03T05:10:45.073-07:00All over the place...The great weather recently has meant the return of the limestone; Chee Dale pretty much all dry, cornice withstanding, the tor looking good and blackwell all dry. This has meant some great days out, trying things that were well out of my reach before the winter. <br />
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Firstly, me and dad headed down to <strong><span style="color: #f3f3f3;">Willersley</span></strong>, a steep, mainly trad, lime crag near Matlock. We finished off some old business in the form of <strong>Hallowed Be My Name 7c</strong>, and also ticked the rather good <strong>Blessed Are The Weak 7a+. </strong>The morning after it was also a case of trying to tick off old projects as I visited the always pleasant <strong>Squirrel Buttress</strong> in Millers Dale. Again I tried and failed to finish off the esoteric classic, <strong>Candy Kaned 7C. </strong>Theres a video of Ethan Doing it here - <br />
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehwkFdprmYA">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehwkFdprmYA</a><br />
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After a belay day on <strong>Curbar</strong>, where Dad GU'ed <strong>The Fall E6 6b, </strong>it was back to <strong>Chee Dale</strong> for the first session this year. Needless to say it was packed with people keen for the lime, I wonder whether they'll still be keen come July, I know i won't.... Anyways, we got on the classic Moffat testpiece <strong>Orange Sunshine 7c+ </strong>and worked out the moves pretty quickly, however I fell repeatedly on the last hard move. It will go next time and considering I've never climbed 7c+ it felt perfectly ok.<br />
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After April Fools day it seemed the weather was playing us for fools again, this time the forecast reading a staggering 15c drop. Taking advantage of this change me and Steve hit up the bitter <strong>Burbage South</strong> in order to try the horrific <strong>Simbas Pride E8 6b. </strong>After a few hours of work Steve had it dialled and will probably go solo next time. I had alot of work to do on the top moves before a solo was attempted. After this we popped into the Secret Garden and ticked the classic <strong>Dick Williams 7B+. </strong><br />
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Looking cold for the next few days which is great as I'm not ready for full lime immersion yet. Hoping to head to <strong>Black Rocks</strong> with Steve on Thursday, with <strong>Gaia</strong> and <strong>Meshuga</strong> on the menu.<br />
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<strong>Lee.</strong><br />
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<strong>Heres a photo of Eddie Barbour on the dyno move, Simbas Pride.</strong><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1tIlKIlPaMbGHPQI7bl8xKp7-SCH5aRHT52FGNMJwZTmWcjJuGQtjSANfEAK9GeExjz-K6MfWca0dkzDpbrB8-fPMJ3C1q9aMFWRHMvChiyVRWSBbaqWuVXxsISnXlI6scyOFrYZbT_Y/s1600/75837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1tIlKIlPaMbGHPQI7bl8xKp7-SCH5aRHT52FGNMJwZTmWcjJuGQtjSANfEAK9GeExjz-K6MfWca0dkzDpbrB8-fPMJ3C1q9aMFWRHMvChiyVRWSBbaqWuVXxsISnXlI6scyOFrYZbT_Y/s320/75837.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>Nathan Leehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08257414011934853833noreply@blogger.com0