Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Highball That!

The new BMC Over The Moors guidebook must be the best climbing guide I've ever seen, chocked full of new inspiration that makes the oft long walk-ins breeze by!
After spending a great day highballing on Kinder South last week we got another day planned out and quickly made the hour and half hike up to the north side of Kinder. Whilst flicking through the guide on the way there I noticed a superb looking line with a name to match. The photo blew me away and I knew I would have to at least take a look at it that day.

We warmed up soloing on Legacy a superb HVS and I did the very reach dependant Big Brother E2. After this we headed along the edge to take a look at the line. Straight off it looked very intimidating with a steep bouldery landing and no obvious good holds. On ab inspection I found some positive but rather snappy looking holds. After a few hours work and convincing myself the holds were solid I led the route. Pulling through the crux the exposure felt great and I quickly made my way to the top. The route weighs in at E7 6b and I think it was the the 2nd ascent of this Tetler (legend) testpiece. Its well worth the walk and its up there with the best routes I've ever done! Highball That You Bastards! The challenge remains!

Theres a video here -


More moorland days to come I hope.....

In other news I made a quick redpoint of Little Boots at the Tor this morning. This cool little 7c has some nice moves on small holds and is well worth trying!

Leeroy, X.

Thursday, 19 July 2012

It Never Rains, It Pours

Unless you've been living under a rock or in a quiet corner of the works (best bet at the moment) then youll have realised that this summer has been a total washout. Cornice never dry, pools under Rubicon and Garage Buttress busier than ever with people desperatly trying to find dry bolts to clipstick. This lack of venues has led me to find solace in the arms of the mighty Raven Tor, which middle routes are almost perma-dry.

After climbing a couple of the middle 7c's (Obscene Gesture / Toilet) I turned my attention to the 8a, The Call Of Nature. Oli G had done this a few months before and had said it was a good first 8a. After a session failing to get anywhere I'd written it off really, but getting back on it in cool conditions it felt fine and I managed it next session. One more step to the three eights now!

Other standout days for the summer so far include an awesome day on Kinder doing some highballs and a couple of first ascents on the boulders. Video Below.


Anyways, good long term forecast so hopefully I'll get a few good sessions over the next few weeks on the limestone and the moorland grit!

Keep up to date with activities on the Logbook!


Ciao, Lee.