Sunday, 25 March 2012

Times a' changing

After realising I'd only done about 5 routes all winter and also that the grit season may be coming to a close, I've spent the last few days frantically trying to finish off various targets from over the winter.

After a good day on Burbage, Me and Steve headed to the esoteric Hall Moor Quarry near Matlock to try the classic underrated arete, Speak The Truth E7 6b. After doing the route in a few goes on a rope we waited for the sun to move round (conditions were poor) and then both soloed it. The route is top draw however the landing leaves alot to be desired, essentially being a pit of brambles intospersed with jagged boulders.

Theres a video of that route and Masters of the Universe here -

Yesterday I planned to hit up another target from over the winter, Appointment with Fear at Wimberry. Unfortunatley it was unpleasantly warm for grit and the lead felt along way away. Instead we just chilled out on the boulders and did the rather nice Fish Arete SS 7b+.

Getting to hot for grit :'( so i guess its lime from now on with the occasional grit day. Psyched for sport in the gorge du chee though, and I guess my fitness levels can only get better.


Wednesday, 21 March 2012

Some more E numbers

Been a great last few days on the grit, new partners up for bold trad, lots on psyche and great weather.

Its been along time coming but on saturday me and dad finally headed down for our second trip to Nesscliffe (on my first one 18 months ago I was only leading e1) We immediately set up shop on the classcic E8 My Piano. After a few goes on a rope we both dispatched it, stunning route and climbing. Rest of the day was spent pottering on the bouldering.

Video of My Piano here

After a cool few days ticking on the boulders, best tick being the awesome Giza at Burbage North, I arranged to head out with Ethan Walker to try some stuff at Burbage South. Conditions wearn't great but Ethan managed a smooth flash of the E6/7 Masters of the Universe in the quarries. I headpointed it having top roped it last year with dad. Definately keen for more ticking up there, Simbas Pride, Braille Trail, Silent Scream....the list goes on and on.

Anyways heading out with Steve tomorrow so should get some more ticking before the weather turns again.


Thursday, 15 March 2012

The Bad and the Beautiful

This classic Mark Leach frightener had been on my list for a while now, but with a lack of partners willing to do bold trad I had never investigated it. But today, after responding to Steve's plea for a belayer on Facebook, we headed up to take a look. The route, although only being 10 metres or so high, sits in a very exposed position directly above The Masters Edge and Edge Lane, with a slim chance that you might bounce off the ledge if you fell. The famous line is always ringing through your head "you can fall but you must not bounce".

After a few goes on a rope we had it dialled and both cruised up it. Its a great route which deserves more ascents and would possibly make a good highball to those with many pads and spotters.

No video as there wasn't a good place :/ heres a guy doing it a bit ago.

We finished off the day by doing a top 7a in the Froggatt woods called Glass Slipper. Well psyched to get back in there for the trad stuff.

Off to Nesscliffe at the weekend, My Piano top of the list. Wish me luck.....


Wednesday, 14 March 2012

New Blog

Here's my new blog. Its pretty simple but I'll try and keep it nice and up to date.

Here is a video of the weekends exploits at Gardoms. A nice day out with a lucky coincidence; meeting Steve Ramsden who was intent on trying Charlotte Rampling, the route me and dad had planned to get on. With an extra pad and team psyche, three smooth ascents soon followed, a good day.

Enjoy (and go and try Charlotte Rampling, its excellent.)