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| Frisbee on Mingulay Beach |
I would describe myself as a trad climber; in that I'm weak
at bouldering and unfit for sport. Up to a few months ago however I had done little to no climbing in some of the mecca's of trad throughout the UK. Sure enough
the grit represents "trad" but in reality it almost deserves its own
discipline, many of the routes I've done being essentially dangerous
bouldering.
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| Mingulay's Finest |
In the past few months however this has changed. Over
several trips I've spent many days climbing on the sea-cliffs and mountains of North Wales and also spent a ludicrous week on the
Hebridean islands of Pabbay and Mingulay. These trips, whilst not ideal
preparation for a hard sport climbing holiday (gulp) have really opened my eyes
to the variety that exists within British climbing. Even further to this though
they have helped budge some of the dissatisfaction I feel with climbing when I
become to focused on difficulty rather than enjoyment.
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| the youth loving it |
Climbing Welsh classics such as Positron, Right Wall and
Midsummer Nights Dream have provided memorable days out and the ridiculous
routes on Pabbay and Mingulay were without doubt the best I've ever climbed.
Four star lines like Ship Of Fools, In Profundum Lacu and Ancient Mariners all
represent the creme de la creme of trad climbing. Massive exposure, perfect
gear, surprising holds and beautiful locations. I could write about them all
day. Its not just the climbing though; out on the islands time becomes
irrelevant, you live almost nocturnally, climbing from afternoon to dark and
getting up at lunchtime. If you ever want to escape real life and its sometimes
mundane nature this is the place to go.
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Robby G on Ship of Fools. Above it blasts straight up the wall to the
grass on some ridiculous holds! |
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| Red Wall, a stunning crag |
Soon I'll be departing for Ceuse, a place I've never been
and by all accounts another stunning crag. With everything left to do there the
aim is to tick as many classics as possible. Following this we head for Cortina
and the Dolomites. This area holds special resonance to me, being the place
where I first experienced climbing, exposure and the mountains. Returning now,
four years after my previous visit, sights are firmly set on some of the big
free classics.
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| The Mingulay Campsite |
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| Dome tent scenes |
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| On the psychebike |
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| Why did we leave the tent?? |
Psyche is as high as ever!
